Even before a well-received exhibition of ‘A Bigger Picture’ at the Royal Academy in 2012, Visit Hull & East Yorkshire tried to raise the profile of ‘Hockney Country’ and bring tourists in to this relatively overlooked part of the county. At some point those responsible for tourism in East Yorkshire and the Wolds, with the help of Rupert Douglas, set about creating eight (later nine) ‘Big Skies Bike Rides’, borrowing a phrase Hockney used to describe the skies over the American West. The Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route includes a number of Hockney locations; however, despite most of those short, circular Big Skies Bike Rides covering the roads travelled by Hockney, there doesn’t seem to have been any attempt made to combine all of the locations chosen by the man himself and link them all together. This post aims to do just that. ‘Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route’ is a little over 100 miles and (with the exception of the busy A166 at Garrowby Hill) takes in all known places studied by ‘Britain’s favourite living artist’.

In trying to avoid main roads as much as possible – and to limit going over the same ground – the route falls naturally in to two distinct parts. The eastern section goes out to the coast through Kilham via Thwing and then Rudston and the standing stone there before returning again through Kilham after the shallow climb of Woldgate. The western section sits entirely within the “candidate area” currently being assessed by Natural England for Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty status. (It seems fair to suggest that the epithet ‘Hockney Country’ has given some renewed impetus for this long overdue designation.) The western section is less spread out and is a loop taking in a number of Wolds favourites.

Take a minor detour to visit Britain’s tallest megalith. It would be rood not to…

Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route – overview

You can view both the Garmin Activity and Strava segment for this Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route. (Edit August 2024: these links updated to include the climb up to Cowlam in order to view ‘A Road Across the Wolds‘.) I am indebted to Simon Gregson for his detailed analysis of the Hockney locations. Although all images here are my own – you will note that I dutifully observe Hockney’s assertion that “you can’t photograph the landscapes here” – I reproduce in limited form some of the information Simon gathered, specifically the grid references first published on www.yocc.co.uk, since delisted.

Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route outline in Garmin Connect

In the version of the route detailed here we start at Huggate, one of the highest villages on the Wolds, although I first rode the full course from nearby Field House campsite, an excellent base for Yorkshire Wolds day rides. (Alternative places to begin the ride might include Sledmere, Weaverthorpe – or even Bempton if choosing to arrive by train.) From Huggate the route drops to Wetwang then climbs to Sledmere along Life Hill.

(St Andrew’s, Kirby Grindalythe on the Sykes Churches Trail is notable for its mosaic by the Venice and Murano Glass & Mosaic Co. depicting the Ascension. At barely a dozen miles in to the ride it is perhaps too soon to make a stop, but its west wall is a rather impressive affair.)

From Kirby Grindalythe we travel along the ‘Great Wold Valley’ and pick up the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route as far as the outskirts of Foxholes before taking the road to Thwing. Our first visit to Kilham is preceded by our first Hockney locations – not pictured – ‘The Road to Thwing, Late Spring‘ (Grid: TA 05801 66398), albeit viewed over the shoulder, along with ‘Harvesting Near the Road to Thwing‘ are followed by ‘Hawthorn Blossom near Rudston‘ (not listed on yocc.co.uk).

‘Hawthorn Blossom near Rudston‘. Er, probably

‘Track and Hedgerow‘ (Grid: TA 08862 66665) just before Rudston and painted in January 2006 featured in the last of the 80 outtakes from Bruce Wollheim from his 2010 documentary.

Moving on from there towards Grindale via Rudston – with a short, lumpy stretch of occasionally busy road – gets us back on the YWCR and Buckton, Bempton, Sewerby and Bridlington. There are galleries in Bridlington as well as plenty of places to eat, but my recommendation would be The Gallery Tea Rooms in Buckton which, rather neatly, doubles as a gallery for watercolour artist Richard Burton.

The Gallery Tea Rooms, Buckton

All the way from Grindale the trail deliberately follows the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route to deliver us to Woldgate and the concentration of places Hockney chose to study in oil and iPad.

There are numerous Woldgate locations detailed by Simon Gregson on www.yocc.co.uk, most of which I haven’t photographed, but which can be viewed from the laybys that pepper this Roman road. The exception would appear to be ‘Walnut Trees‘ (Grid: TA 13622 67512.) Simon suggests a stop at ‘Woldgate Woods‘ (Grid: TA 13723 67017) and that by “parking your car there, you can [...] go down the hill following a track to Boynton. It is down this track that ‘Walnut Trees’ was painted.”

The Woldgate locations between Bessingby Hill (Bridlington) and Kilham

In following the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route (and the Way of the Roses) from the Bridlington coast the trail makes its way to Woldgate. It avoids a Hockney location at this point, but for those wishing to scrupulously observe each point of interest – albeit this particular one filmed rather than painted – a detour from the Garmin/Strava route is not far: ‘25 Trees between Bridlington School and Morrison’s supermarket along Bessingby Road in the Semi-Egyptian style‘ (Grid: TA 17217 66786). See the Bessingby Road page from Visit East Yorkshire’s web site for a minor detour if you wish. Best viewed from the entrance to the fire station, apparently.

Back on to Woldgate and the places of interest come thick and fast. What follows is a list of locations you may wish to keep an eye out for…

‘Woldgate Tree‘ (Grid: TA 15630 67353) and nearby ‘Lovely Day with Puddles‘, ‘Woldgate Winter Tree, 2006‘ and ‘Road and Two Trees East Yorkshire‘.

‘The Arrival of Spring‘ (Grid: TA 14520 67316)

‘Woldgate Woods‘ (Grid: TA 13723 67019) and from there the track towards Boynton and ‘Walnut Trees‘ (Grid: TA 13622 67512) as detailed earlier – ‘Walnut Trees‘ is not on the Garmin/Strava route for this ride.

‘Winter Timber‘ (Grid: TA 13206 66872), and a totem since cut down by vandals. Just beyond this a right turn heads towards Boynton. Apparently, at the edge of the woods down the hill the painting ‘Roads and Cornfields‘ was created, as well as the watercolour ‘After Rain‘.

‘Early Blossom Woldgate‘ (Grid: TA 12011 66380) before a hedgerow in the left and a small lane across the fields. The painting was made looking towards Kilham.

Woldgate leads directly to Kilham where ‘Midsummer‘, and the puddle and tunnel locations follow in quick succession.

‘Midsummer‘ (Grid: TA 06516 64423) the view of the church from East Street is one from the ‘Midsummer’ series.

‘Puddle Near Kilham‘ (Grid: TA 05093 64620), it seems likely…

‘Late Spring Tunnel’, Kilham (Grid: TA 04814 64760)

After the tunnel continue on the road to Langtoft (just before the village ‘Tracks into a Wheatfield near Langtoft‘ is on the right beyond a gated entrance).

‘Tracks into a Wheatfield near Langtoft‘ (Grid: TA 01433 66160)

Once in the village take the second exit north on the mini-roundabout and a short uphill stretch of the B1249 before picking up the minor road left along the road towards Sledmere. (Note also that St Peter’s, Langtoft is a significant church sadly omitted from the Sykes Churches Trail: A Cyclist’s route. Follow the brown tourist signs for a short diversion if you would like to tick this one off.) This ultimately brings us back to the Great Wold Valley near Helperthorpe, where the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route is picked up again briefly before a turning left at the crossroads at the bottom of the hill to head up to Cowlam and go along ‘The Road Across the Wolds‘.

Collingwood House from ‘The Road Across the Wolds’

(At the top of the climb to the Cowlam crossroads we head down to Sledmere passing Collingwood House which features in that oil on canvas painting. The B1253 can be busy, but even this risk averse cyclist isn’t fazed by the mostly downhill stretch in to Sledmere. Just don’t ride it uphill would be my advice.)

The rotunda seen in ‘The Road to York Through Sledmere‘

A word of caution. The mostly downhill stretch of the B1251 from Sledmere heading west has caused me no upset, but it’s arguably not for the squeamish. (It can be busy, but I can always get a move on; I wouldn’t choose to ride in the opposite direction uphill, though.) The Big G Sportive takes this road as far as the roundabout near the picnic area and Yorkshire Wolds Railway sidings – before heading north along the B1248 – but we go straight over the roundabout and continue along the B1251 on the way to the village of Fimber, carefully taking the right turn to Burdale. We’re heading to Thixendale now along the narrow valley road that has become rather busy in recent times. There is just enough room on the far side of the road to pull over in to the scrape of a layby-cum-passing place and view ‘Three Trees near Thixendale‘.

‘Three Trees near Thixendale‘ (Grid: SE 86822 62287)

In Thixendale (Cross Keys pub, village hall refreshments Sundays only) take the steep road immediately beside the village hall and head up towards the Roman road. Once over, take particular care on the steep descent through Uncleby Wold, follow the road around and take a left to pass through Kirby Underdale and drop again before the climb of Painsthorpe Lane.

‘Bugthorpe Valley’(Grid: SE 82216 58275) or Painsthorpe Dale near the top of the road out of Kirby Underdale

At the Roman road again, take a left and then a right along the ‘Fuller Gallery Road’. Regular viewers of the BBC’s The One Show will be familiar with Robert Fuller’s wildlife videos that allow us to share moments from the lives, loves – and occasionally deaths – of stoats, kestrels and owls etc. The gallery is an impressive setup.

Fuller Gallery, Fotherdale, Yorkshire Wolds

At the bottom of the gallery’s road take the sharp right uphill towards Huggate. The trailer for Bruno Wollheim’s ‘David Hockney: A Bigger Picture’ documentary shows the artist and his assistant struggling with the wind as they wrestle with an easel and the quickly changing light.

The painting shown in this Huggate Road scene from the trailer is not specifically referred to as ‘A Bigger Picture’ exhibited work – perhaps it was never completed – but the view is over to Fotherdale and the Fuller Gallery

(As we near the layby on the left of Huggate Road we see where Hockney pulled over to set up on the opposite side of the single track road. Further along is where ‘Wheat Field near Fridaythorpe‘ (Grid SE 84462 60096) was painted. It featured on the August 2020 cover of British Vogue.)

Over the A166 – a very busy road – I don’t go as far as Huggate just yet, instead picking up the clockwise Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route in the direction of ‘Garrowby Hill‘. However, rather than revisiting that main road at the staggered crossing of the A166 – detour if you must be faithful to all of the Hockney locations – I stay on the road, bearing left, and drop down the hill in the direction of Givendale. Watch out for a tight left turn towards Millington that you’ll need to take, though.

On this route I don’t go in to the village itself, but the attractions there include the Gait Inn, Ramblers’ Rest tearoom and a repurposed phone box converted to provide spares and tools for passing cyclists.

Millington Dale is a beautiful and rewarding valley to pass through on any cycle ride. It brings us towards Huggate.

‘Wider Valley, Millington‘ (Grid: SE 84790 53949) on both the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route and Way of the Roses

NB The Garmin/Strava routes don’t show a diversion immediately before Huggate, but those wishing to visit the location for ‘Huggate’s St Mary’s Church Spire‘ can follow the blue cycle route signs pointing in the direction of the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route. After a few hundred metres look for a layby on the opposite side of the road from which the church can be seen.

‘Huggate’s St Mary’s Church Spire‘ (Grid: SE 87336 55336) on a drizzly day. Note that you will need to detour slightly from the Garmin/Strava course to view this scene

If you have taken the short out-and-back to view St Mary’s Church spire, Hugggate from the York Road, return to enter the village then take the right turn before the Wolds Inn and continue on to Warter. A right turn at the B1246 T junction and a left turn opposite the village pond will take you to Bailey Dale and the climb of Bailey Lane to ‘Warter Vista‘ (Grid: SE 87765 49310), which can’t really be viewed without stopping at the roadside and taking a look back down the dale.

At the end of this road there is an unremarkable clump of trees over on the right. They were planted to replace those chopped down before Hockney could finish painting them for the third and fourth seasons – ‘Bigger Trees Nearer Warter, 2008‘ (Grid: SE 88432 48763) – see this Hockney Foundation video (not to be confused with the final location on this tour). Instead, we have ‘Less Trees near Warter‘, which would appear to have been created not long after the trees were felled.

The last painting on this Hockney Trail was one I found particularly difficult to photograph for inclusion here. I actually went to see ‘Bigger Trees near Warter‘ (Grid: SE 89487 50188) at Ferens Art Gallery, Hull some years ago. The fifty panels were curved at the sides. Was it to suggest the way that nature envelops us as we are inexorably drawn in to it? Or something. No, there simply wasn’t enough space to display the full installation, and so they had to curl the edges round to fit it all in the room. Similarly, I couldn’t get far enough back to photograph the full view of it in the flesh, as Hockney himself admits:

Bruno Wollheim: “The view you’ve got must be way back there.”

David Hockney: “Yes, it is, yeah. Well, in your head you can go anywhere. Didn’t you know that?”

Watch one of the 80 outtakes released on Hockney’s 80th birthday: Outtake 5/80 ‘Sketching Bigger Trees Near Warter, 19th April 2006′ by Bruno Wollheim on YouTube for a view on site.

The ‘Bigger Trees Near Warter’ at spring time

So, all that remains is an enjoyable, long shallow descent to Middleton on the Wolds then the drag out of North Dalton back in the direction of Huggate before returning to the start point of this Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route.

Actually, the final word for now should probably go to the man himself. Enjoy the ride. Enjoy the space…

I worked on a farm. I cycled around here for two summers… You get to know it’s hilly if you’re cycling. I was always attracted to it. I always thought it had space. One of the thrills of landscape is that it’s a spatial experience.

Note: this page was amended August 2024 to include the Cowlam climb in order to pass through the scenery depicted in ‘The Road Across the Wolds‘.

In 2022 a free car park opened just outside the eastern edge of nearby Huggate, that would make an ideal start point. This isn’t a long ride, but you would be forgiven for taking refreshments in the newly refurbished Wolds Inn afterwards. So here is a suggested route. What’s yours…?

If arriving by car I avoid parking in Thixendale itself – there’s not a lot of free space – instead using the public parking available in places such as Goodmanham and Warter, or here on the eastern edge of Huggate, although on this ride I started from slightly further afield

The photograph at the top of this post was taken on the descent of Huggate Road, a hill I would ordinarily prefer to climb. However, a priority here was to avoid going up some of the stiffer, busier roads so I dropped in to Thixendale after crossing the A166 that marks the boundary there between the East Riding of Yorkshire and North Yorkshire. Here’s a quick summary of the day’s route option:

1. Descent of Huggate Road (preferred as an ascent, because it’s too steep and gravelly to best enjoy downhill)
2. Ascent of Water Dale* (preferred as an ascent, but great either way)
3. Descent of the ‘Fuller Gallery’ road* (preferred as an descent as it’s rather tight and twisty)
4. Ascent of Burdale (preferred for the same reasons as Huggate Road)
5. Descent of Fridaythorpe to Thixendale road (preferred for the same reasons as the ‘Fuller Gallery’ road)
6. Ascent of the road next to Thixendale Village hall (no real preference, but usually quiet, although a heavily rutted surface)

*The descent of the ‘Fuller Gallery’ road and the ascent of Water Dale – in that order – are part of the recommended, clockwise version of the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route.

Dropping in to Thixendale via the road from Fridaythorpe

So a taster of the roads around Thixendale. I had thought that the name of this village was derived from its position within six dales, but apparently there are sixteeen, which I suppose makes more sense. At any rate, if you would like a hilly, fairly contained route then this is one you might wish to consider.

If the embedded ride doesn’t display you can click here to open in Garmin Connect or view in Strava.

Also of interest, a former ride buddy’s comments on Strava about the ‘Thixendale Spider’:

Spider. Do each climb out of Thix. and straight back down to the village after each one. Make one of them much longer and your map on Strava looks like a Spider on a thread. Do all the possible climbs twice and you have “killed the spider”.

See also Clifton CC’s ‘Thixendale Spirograph‘, which I wouldn’t personally choose to do, but which is certainly thorough.

Ignorance is bliss – but perhaps the warning signs were there on the start line. There was a 75% DNS (Did Not Start) rate on the longest of the four CTC Challenge Rides which meant I’d be doing this 200km route alone.

The East Yorkshire CTC run a series of Challenge Rides: 70km, 130km and 170km. This year, however, the organiser (Chris) had added a 200km route which could be ridden as an entry level Randonneur event. New rules from Audax UK allow for routes which can be both planned and validated by GPS devices. Traditionally, Randonneur events [Audax in the UK], are ‘allure libre’; meaning you can take any route you like between control points. I like this approach but if you want a more convoluted route it can be difficult finding appropriate controls. The “Mandatory DIY by GPS” rule meant that I could take Chris’ route and submit it as my DIY 200km Audax.

My ride had actually started by leaving Welton and climbing Welton Wold to reach Cottingham, it was promising to be a beautiful day for this 210km route. In Cottingham I met other riders who’d travelled from as far as Harrogate to take part, and everyone turning up early in the morning was given a warm welcome by Chris and treated to some delicious coffee he’d prepared for us the evening before.

Although I was the only 200km rider on the start line, there was a good turnout for the 170km route and Chris set us off together at 8am. In the enthusiasm of group riding we did set off at a cracking speed, keeping the pressure on over the first early climbs through Little Weighton to High Hunsley. There was great communication in the group, pointing out surface hazards and calling out junctions. We took a sharp right on a steep downhill into North Newbald and stretched out a little on the climb of Newbald Wold. The views opened out before us and we had a brief respite rolling along fast together towards Etton and into South Dalton.

I was beginning to think about dropping off the back of the group now as I had an extra 40km to ride and some locally infamous hills to experience. These riders were all strong, but when *the fairy who shall not be named* deflated Richard’s rear tyre we all pulled up to wait. I made my apologies – they were on a different ride to me – and I just carried on. I had a feeling they’d be passing me before long anyway.

At first though, my speed stayed quite high because we were in the flatter part of the ride and I was being helped by a friendly tailwind. Between Lund and Hutton Cranswick I was passing across wide open farmland with lovely views. Lovely views featured constantly, and there is something very reassuring about gently rolling farmland. It wasn’t until I’d crossed the A166 at Garton on the Wolds that the road began to climb again, this time on the shallow 3% gradient of Garton Hill to the 37m high “Sir Tatton Sykes’s Monument”. The monument stands out from the surrounding landscape and apparently built in 1865 by “those who loved him as a friend and honoured him as a landlord”. It is an easy climb just over 2km in length, but the exposed road can result in a bit of a headwind.

Just past the monument I reached Sledmere and there is a cafe in Sledmere House, highly recommended I understand. I wasn’t quite ready yet so happily I rolled on, following Croome Road north and slightly downhill to West Lutton. I was beginning to wonder where all the hills were, not that the ride had been flat, but more that my route had 3000m of ascent and I’d barely scratched that despite covering 80km already. I found some encouragement in West Lutton, because I was now on a road used in several audax events – the climb to Settrington Beacon. This was a 5km climb with about 100m of height gain… about 2% gradient: at last I was chipping away at the headline climbing figure.

Settrington Beacon

There were very good views from the top of Settrington Beacon, but the cloud level was now low with a hint of rain in the air. The descent is definitely hazardous with gravel washed across the road, a very uneven surface, tight bends and occasionally a local motorist hurtling along. I was glad I’d reached the bottom before the rain suddenly hit. Getting drenched certainly created a sense of camaraderie between me and the walkers out exercising their dogs along the roadside. I was now into North Yorkshire, having dropped off the northern edge of the Wolds and I was very close to Malton. As I passed the lake outside Settrington Grange, I was blissfully ignorant that the next 60km were going to contain the majority of the climbing. First was Grimston Brow along Luddith Road, a tough little climb thanks to the broken and uneven singletrack road surface.

I wasn’t aware at the time, but looking at my OS map I see that I was cycling past ‘Earthquake Plantation’ and Wharram Percy Medieval Village. I soon dropped down again into Birdsall and another testing climb began to get over the top of Birdsall Brow. Once over this climb I was delighted to find Water Dale, and its sweeping bends which lead down to Thixendale where it was time for some refreshment. The village was quiet, it was 12:30pm and I was 100km into my ride. Coffee was on offer at the village hall, and behind me was a village shop. I rested for about 15 minutes and then set off on the ‘additional’ loop which would turn the 170km ride into the 210km ride.

I’ve missed the scale from this image, but the bottom of the profile is about 40m above sea-level and the top of the profile is about 240m above sea-level. I knew Chris had ridden this to check it was rideable, but little did I know how demanding it was going to be. I headed out of Thixendale on the climb to North Brekenholme and joined the Roman Road which runs along the ridge top looking west towards York. The escarpment drops steeply away in the multiple crinkles of Open Dale and Acklam Wold and with about 200m from top to bottom, the views west were beautiful.

Just like that moment on a rollercoaster as the car crests the top of the big dipper… so I felt as I turned left and dropped down Leavening Brow: but there was no way I was going to be as fast as a rollercoaster. This was going to involve a lot more suffering. I knew this when I saw cyclists were walking up the road towards me! In Leavening I rode up and down and up and down through Acklam Wood to reach the bottom of the climb to Acklam Wold and the mast at the top. Lung busting. I turned immediately right and dropped down steeply to Barthorpe and turned at Bugthorpe back eastward. Before I reached Kirkby Underdale I took the turn for the gated road and the climb from Salamanca Beck; thankfully there were no closed gates today, but the 1:6 signpost warned of pain, and the rough road surface delivered it.

This climb brought me back to the Roman Road, but Chris’ planning took me straight back down again through Uncleby to what must be the most humorously named “Painsthorpe”. All of these climbs feature in Simon Warren’s “Cycling Climbs of Yorkshire: A Road Cyclist’s Guide” – in fact Chris’ 200km route ticks off 5 of them. There is a very detailed analysis of the local hills which was written by a gentleman called Roger England. So – Painsthorpe. Actually, not so bad in reality. I found the previous climb – from Salamanca Beck, possibly known as Hanging Grimston – the toughest. Perhaps it was the knowledge that the majority of the day’s climbs were over, but while riding up to the Roman Road for the third time something buoyed me along: I felt serenely comfortable as I crested the top of Painsthorpe. With a whoop of delight I dropped once more into Thixendale and refuelled. I’d covered 150km and as everyone knows, it’s all downhill from there.

The first bit of downhill came in the shape of a 14% uphill (!?!) gradient out of Thixendale; up and over Huggate Hill. Then a turn and descent into Millington, along a sweeping and twisty gentle downhill slope, somewhere to enjoy freewheeling! In Millington there was a really tempting looking pub, with people sitting out in the sunshine – but the joy of cycling was upon me and I rolled along without glancing back.

I skimmed around the east of Pocklington and was riding at a brisk pace as I came to Nunburnholme. I have heard there is a hill here, so I girded my loins for another arduous climb – but the wind was in my favour and took the edge of the effort. I stopped at the top of the climb and looked south west: the Holderness Plain was laid out before me. I could see Market Weighton, the Humber, and beyond that the wind farms of North Lincolnshire. Further west I could see a couple of power stations, I assume Drax and Ferrybridge. I had a huge grin on my face and thought I’d be able to take it easy on the way home now. I called Chris to let him know I was well, because I suspected that I was now the last rider on the road.

As I approached Market Weighton, I was moving a lot faster but then the road was a lot busier. I crossed the roundabout on the A614 and headed into town, but Chris’ route planning had one last surprise for me: I turned for Goodmanham and started the Kiplingcotes Lane climb. I was surprised and delighted to find that Chris was actually out on the route taking photos of the riders. So later he sent me a picture to remember his event.

Riding faster and faster, I took the busy little road through North Cliffe and South Cliffe before one little bump up to Hotham and paused to enjoy the view from under the wind turbines. Each descent was feeling more and more glorious, giving me a grin on my face from ear to ear. In North Cave I called into the White Hart Inn for a pint of fermented-isotonic-recovery-juice and a packet of artificial flavours.

I hope this route becomes a regular feature in the East Yorkshire CTC Challenge Rides because it asks a lot but gives a lot. The euphoria I’ve been feeling for completing it makes the pain and struggle worth it. The views from the Roman Road are breathtaking, as are the climbs. And the twisty descents of Water Dale and into Millington were great fun. Thank you once again Chris, the East Yorkshire CTC, and everyone who helped make this ride happen.

From a display board in St Mary, Sledmere:

Between 1856 and 1913 Sir Tatton Sykes, 4th baronet (1772-1863) and Sir Tatton Sykes, 5th baronet (1826-1913) of Sledmere built, rebuilt or restored 18 rural churches in East Yorkshire, chiefly on the Wolds. It was the aim of Sir Tatton Sykes II, ‘perhaps the greatest English church builder of the 19th century’, to create centres of ‘Christian Art and Worship’ and he spent a fortune to produce some of the finest village churches in Britain. Three of the greatest Gothic Revival architects were employed: John L. Pearson, later architect of Truro Cathedral, George Edmund Street, best known for the Royal Courts of Justice, Strand, and Temple L. Moore, whose career began in the East Riding.

The glory of the impressive architecture of the Sykes churches is equalled by the splendour of their Victorian and Edwardian furnishings by leading craftsmen and artists of the age. On sunny days the churches are flooded with colour from stained glass by the firms of Clayton & Bell, Burlison & Grylls, Kempe & Co., and H.V. Milner. The roofs are painted, the floors covered with decorative tiles, and the ornate wooden or wrought iron and brass screens divide nave from chancel.

The Sykes Churches Trail appears to have come about in 2013 to mark the hundredth anniversary of the death of Tatton Sykes II. It is separated in to a southern circuit and a smaller northern circuit, with Sledmere appearing on both. Over the summer of 2022 I completed several shorter rides in order to devise a single manageable, but challenging, Sykes Churches Trail suitable for road and touring cyclists. It covers a little over 100 miles.

Not all of the Sykes churches are included in the resultant route. I originally visited North Frodingham and Wansford but discounted them as, well, this is a web site celebrating cycling on the Yorkshire Wolds and these two villages are on the Holderness plain. (Similarly, the church of St Margaret, Hilston sits on the North Sea coast and was in any case destroyed by a bomb and rebuilt in the 1950s.) St Peter, Langtoft and St Andrew, East Heslerton failed to make the cut because of their proximity to unsuitable main roads. None of these roads is free from risk but, ultimately, safety won out over completeness.

This, entirely unofficial, cyclist-friendly Sykes Churches Trail incorporates both northern and southern circuits and fourteen of the Sykes churches. A photograph and description of each church is given below. The cyclist’s cardinal sin of going back over the same roads is kept to a minimum, and is limited to the final spur at Bishop Wilton (a place that would make for an interesting start point). A desire to avoid uphill sections on the busier roads, and to miss out less scenic views, led to some slightly extended loops and route-making decisions. (For instance, as a risk averse cyclist I never ride uphill from Fimber to Sledmere, or from Sledmere to the Cowlam crossroads, and I avoid the featureless drag from Wetwang to Huggate.) Ultimately, the choice of route – and the decision to drop some Sykes churches from the list – was determined by a mixture of safety concerns, a need for quiet roads and a wish to take in the varied and pleasant scenery of the Yorkshire Wolds.

A suggested cyclist’s route for the Yorkshire Wolds Sykes Church Trail as a Garmin Connect course. (Note that East Heslerton and Langtoft are omitted because of their proximity to unsuitable roads.)

You can also view the Sykes Churches Trail – A Cyclist’s Route as a Strava segment and as a Garmin Connect activity.

Sykes Churches Trail – A Cyclist’s Route

As already mentioned, this route could be started at other points – including Hutton Cranswick or Driffield if arriving by train – but here the start point is Field House Farm Campsite, Tibthorpe, which is an excellent base for day rides on the Yorkshire Wolds. (Several other varied route suggestions can be found on the campsite’s listing as one of the ‘Ride Base Loops‘ on this web site.) Consequently, approximate mileage figures for each of the villages passed through are taken from Field House Farm; the route does not necessarily pass immediately by each of the churches and a very short detour may be required to visit some of them. Descriptions of each church are reproduced from material written to promote the trail in 2013.

St Mary, Kirkburn (mile 3). “An early 12th century Norman church restored by J.L. Pearson for Sir Tatton Sykes I in 1856-7 when the south porch was added. The spectacular Norman doorway of three orders has beakhead and zigzag in the arch and a hoodmould with beasts and figures. Inside there is a fine Norman chancel arch and a delightfully rustic font carved with figures including what appears to be a cat with a mouse. Street furnished the chancel in 1872 and designed the ornate reredos carved by Redfern.”

St Michael, Garton-on-the-Wolds (mile 6). “An imposing Norman church dating from around 1120. It was restored by J.L. Pearson for Tatton Sykes I in 1856-7 when he reconstructed the Norman south doorway and the chancel. The interior comes as a great surprise. In 1872 Tatton Sykes II employed G.E. Street to furnish the church and he was responsible for the extraordinary paintings which cover the walls of the nave and chancel and the jewel-like stained glass. The paintings and glass are by Clayton & Bell and show related Old and New Testament scenes.”

St Mary, Sledmere (mile 11). “The grandest of the Sykes churches built for Tatton Sykes II in 1893-8 at a cost of at least £60,000. Designed by Temple Moor it stands on the site of a 14th-century church that was rebuilt, except for the tower, in 1758. The church is a most lavish essay in the Decorated style with a richly carved red sandstone interior, particularly in the chancel. There is an ornate screen and rood loft and elaborate reredos. The stained glass is by H.V. Milner and Burlison & Grylls (north aisle). There are monuments to the Sykes family from the former church and the fascinating illuminated book commemorating the Wagoners Reserve of the First World War.”

St Andrew, Kirby Grindaltythe (mile 14) “The church with its prominent spire is well sited in a large churchyard on the side of the valley above the Gypsey Race. Dating from the early 12th century the church has earlier origins revealed by fragments of 9th-11th century crosses and an early Romanesque tomb chest. The chancel was reconstructed and a new nave built in 1872-5 by G.E. Street for Sir Tatton Sykes II who provided it with stained glass by Clayton & Bell and H.V. Milner, pretty wrought-iron and wooden screens and a carved alabaster and marble reredos, and covered the whole of the west wall of the nave with a startling mosaic by the Venice and Murano Glass & Mosaic Co. depicting the Ascension.”

St Mary, West Lutton (mile 16). “St Mary’s is one of the most delightful of the smaller Sykes churches with its pretty wooden bell turret in Home Counties style and great variety in window pattern. Designed by G.E. Street and built in 1872-3 it cost Sir Tatton Sykes over £13,000. The church has a sumptuously decorated interior. The roof, of the nave, aisles and tunnel-vaulted vestry, is painted all over with floral designs and texts and has stars and suns in relief. The raised chancel is stone-vaulted with a painted reredos by Burlison & Grylls who were also responsible for the stained glass installed throughout the church in 1891.”

St Peter, Helperthorpe (mile 17). “Standing to the north of the village street St Peter’s is another church designed by G.E. Street for Sir Tatton Sykes II, again entirely individual. Built 1871-3 in the Early Decorated style it has a distinctive tower with bold spire and canted stair turret. Externally the chancel is a little higher than the nave, internally it has eight steps above. Inside the richly painted roofs of the nave, with bands of flowers and stars in relief, and the chancel, with floral panels, are the most striking features. The stained glass by Burlison & Grylls replaced the original scheme by Clayton & Bell in 1893, when the north aisle was added by Temple Moore who designed the fine stone reredos there. The Old Vicarage is by Street.”

St Andrew, Weaverthorpe (mile 18). “High up above the village, alongside the earthworks of a medieval manor house, stands this superb Norman church, restored by G.E. Street for Sir Tatton Sykes II in 1870-2. The inscription on the sundial over the entrance records that the church was built by Herbert of Winchester, the father of St William of York, probably c. 1120. The tall slim early Norman tower has a rounded staircase turret. Inside the high plain stone walls of the narrow aisleless nave contrast with the decorated barrel-vaulted roofs and the lavish Victorian furnishings. The stained glass is by Clayton & Bell.”

St Hilda, Sherburn (mile 25). “At the north end of the village in a large churchyard St Hilda’s, the last of the churches funded by Sir Tatton Sykes II, was completed just before his death. Largely rebuilt by C. Hodgson Fowler 1909-12, the earliest features in the church are the nine pieces of Anglo-Saxon sculpture at the base of the tower, and the wide Norman chancel arch. The interior has exceptional early 20th-century woodwork by Thompson & Co. including a richly carved rood screen, choir stalls with carvings of animals and birds, the organ case and font cover, and the chancel roof with winged angels. Unusually for a Sykes church the only stained glass is medieval fragments in the west window of the south aisle.”

St Mary, Cowlam (mile 41). “A small medieval church that was restored and partly rebuilt in 1852 to designs supplied by Mary E. Sykes, daughter of Tatton Sykes I. The village was depopulated in the late 17th century and the church is reached through a farmyard. Inside is a tub-shaped Norman font richly carved with figures including the three Magi, Adam and Eve, and two wrestlers.”

St Nicholas, Wetwang (mile 70). “The fascinating history of the development of this church from the 11th to the 20th century can be traced in the stonework and fittings. From the Norman period are the north arcade, two windows in the nave, the font and reused carvings in the vestry and under the tower. The tower and north chapel are 13th century, the north doorway is 14th century. There are remnants of 17th-century texts on the nave wall. There was a restoration in 1845-6 paid for by Tatton Sykes I but his son financed a more comprehensive programme of works by Temple Moore in 1895-6 on the tower and north wall, and C. Hodgson Fowler who rebuilt the chancel and re-roofed the nave in 1901-2 when the stained glass by Burlison & Grylls was inserted.”

St Mary, Fimber (mile 76). “The church, of Whitby stone in a 13th-century style, was designed by G.E. Street and built 1869-71 for Tatton Sykes II. It replaced a small chapel-of-ease that had been built on the site of a Bronze Age burial mound. The chancel has an ornate brass and iron screen and a richly carved reredos. The fine stained glass windows are by Clayton & Bell.”

St Mary, Fridaythorpe (mile 78). “Another interesting church restored for Tatton Sykes II by C. Hodgson Fowler in 1902-3. He added a new north aisle, replacing a 13th-century aisle long demolished, and the south porch to what is largely an early 12th-century building. The squat tower has an elaborate Edwardian clock face. There is a curious inscription ‘this 713 found hear’ carved on the capital of the first column from the east in the north arcade. The ornate carved reredos came from Sledmere church and the glass is by Burlison & Grylls, 1910.”

St Mary, Thixendale (mile 81). “The church, built 1868-70, the former vicarage and school (now village hall) and school house form an important group of buildings all designed by G.E. Street for Tatton Sykes II. It is a small church in the style of the 13th century with an aisled nave, bellcote and chancel. The stained glass windows are by Clayton & Bell except the east window by Burlison & Grylls in 1893.”

St Edith, Bishop Wilton (mile 92). “As lavish and embellished on the inside as it is visually striking on the outside, with its 15th-century tower and spire, St Edith’s church is a treat. The Norman chancel arch and south doorway are richly carved, the latter with animals, faces and human figures. The church was faithfully restored for Tatton Sykes in 1858-9 by J.L. Pearson who was responsible for the prettily painted hammerbeam roof, possibly the work of Clayton & Bell who were responsible for the stained glass. Temple Moore designed the elaborate font for Tatton Sykes II and the black and white mosaic floor said to be based on a floor in the Vatican and laid by Salviati in 1902.”

Related route alternatives in Garmin Connect

The full 100-mile route above is perhaps too long to form some sort of pilgrimage by bike – certainly for one day. Each church deserves a lengthier visit than is possible during a ride of fourteen churches in one go. Rather, the route is intended as a themed ride to enjoy the mostly quiet lanes around villages of the Yorkshire Wolds that feature a Sykes church. Alternative options are detailed below that allowed me more time to appreciate a number of the churches in greater detail. These are the routes I took when I was looking to put together the longer ride.

Sykes Churches Trail (Southern & Northern Circuit) from Field House Farm Campsite – 58 miles, 2,300 feet

Sykes Churches Trail (Southern Circuit) – Eastern Leg from Field House Farm Campsite – 46 miles, 1,300 feet

Sykes Churches Trail (Southern Circuit) – Western Leg from Field House Farm Campsite – 42 miles, 2,770 feet

Sykes Churches Trail (Southern Circuit) from near Beverley – 100 miles, 4,200 feet

Next page – Disclaimer, Ride Notes and More on the Sykes Churches

The only criticisms of this route – levelled by one of the group of cyclists who rode with me one day way back in 2012 – concerns the same road: the route over Langton Wold to and from Malton. It’s a fast descent but, unsurprisingly, a correspondingly slow ascent, which isn’t a problem with the other, quieter uphill stretches on this ride. It’s just that this can be a busy road and, for me at least, there is a greater sense of vulnerability as I puff and pant uphill with motor vehicles whizzing past. The other objection on the day was Langton Wold is effectively and ‘out-and-back’; a circular route is generally preferred by the majority of my ride buddies. Still, the same climb forms part of the Pock Pedal, following refreshments in a community centre or similar in Malton/Norton. Perhaps it’s an age thing.

Once over Langton Wold from the start in Malton there is a descent towards Birdsall and pretty views to be had through the estate of Birdsall House, one of an increasing number of Yorkshire country houses now offering its services as a film set.

Birdsall Brow

Maybe one day I will set a good time on the ascent of Birdsall Brow. I’ve never beaten my ride buddies up it, and I find it somehow tougher than similar climbs but, as with this ride, I’m almost always thinking about the freefall in to Thixendale through Water Dale to take my mind off the toil. Water Dale is not so steep as to be tough to climb, or too dangerous to descend and it has understandably featured in many Yorkshire Wolds cycle events. After entering the village – the hall opens only on a Sunday for refreshments – the route points towards Burdale, passing the Three Trees near Thixendale before a left turn and what can be a stiff little climb for the unprepared rider. Here’s what John Woodcock, for the Yorkshire Post, wrote about this part of the ‘Thixendale from Malton or Norton on Derwent’ Big Skies Bike Ride:

A couple of miles on you start pedalling back to Malton. That is you would if you were of Tour de France standard. At this point most average cyclists will have to dismount and push the bike up to the plateau above the remains of the medieval village of Wharram Percy.

That makes it sound tougher than it probably is, but the pleasant view of Fairy Dale affords a distraction from any exertions – just watch out for gravel on the way up. I’ve yet to visit the deserted medieval village at Wharram Percy – from memory the bridleway looks a bit choppy for a road bike – but for those not in a hurry it’s always an option. (Looking at the map I wonder if it is possible to get down the hill to the village from the road then rejoin the route later at the switchback near the ford along the bridleway – just don’t quote me on that.)

Point 7 on the map and the turn-off for the bridleway

There is a part of this route along a bridleway that the excellent map suggests should be taken. I’ve done it once and it was fine. The alternative is to take the main road. I’ve never had a problem – there is soon a 30mph warning sign after the road is reached – and a left turn at the crossroads in Wharram le Street brings us back on course. A lovely, typically quiet, road drops to a ford (I’ve yet to see any water in it) and a short sharp climb before the right turn towards Grimston Brow. I should point out a couple of things, not wanting to put you off or anything, the first being that this is fairly remote now – from memory it’s a struggle to get a phone signal – and the descent of Grimston Brow is through a rarely gated cow field. The road surface is much improved since I caused something of a mini-stampede one time. Other riders have reported trying to shoo away uncooperative bovines before taking Luddith Road as an ascent. Still, on this Big Skies Bike Ride we’re going downhill, so it will all be over that bit quicker.

Luddith Road/Grimston Brow. Arguably best done as a descent, and maybe keep an eye on the weather forecast

Safely over the second and final cattle grid on Luddith Road and it’s a usually quiet road towards Langton Wold and a gentle climb before the pacy drop back down to Malton. I used to like the full English breakfast at the Yorkshire Tea Rooms in the self-styled food capital of North Yorkshire, but it’s been a while…

The PDF maps for the Big Skies Bike Rides are not stored on this web site, but can be downloaded from this page.

Technically, I don’t have this route as a Garmin Connect activity or Strava segment, but for what it’s worth here is the Thixendale from Malton or Norton on Derwent Big Skies Bike Ride on Garmin Connect as part of a longer ride.

Field House near Tibthorpe is an ‘off-grid’ campsite east of Huggate on the Way of the Roses cycle route and three miles from the course of the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route. It opened in July 2021 as a ‘pop-up’ site (and after a successful trial has been developed further with the addition of purpose built ‘eco’ toilets for 2022 and ‘coffee barn’ in 2023).

Happy Yorkshire Day everyone #YorkshireDay #YORKSHIRE #yorkshirewolds pic.twitter.com/7ktsrSIiiF

— Field House Campsite (@FieldCampsite) August 1, 2022

Here’s what Dixe Wills, travel writer for the Guardian, wrote about the countryside in which Field House Campsite is set, between Huggate and Tibthorpe, after completing the Way of the Roses for the first time:

And furthermore, I was ready for the question every cyclist gets asked about a long-distance ride: What’s your favourite bit? My answer? The four miles on the way to the village of Tibthorpe, about 20 miles from the east coast: huge skies, an empty road beneath my wheels and the sylvan countryside below melting away in the summer haze. I’m ashamed to say I threw my arms out wide and, coming over all Leonardo DiCaprio, shouted out, “I’m the king of the wold”. Which just goes to show that country air may not be so good for you after all.

As well as being a potential overnight stop for those riding the Way of the Roses the campsite is in a prime location for cyclists looking for a base in the Yorkshire Wolds from which to complete a range of day rides. Many Yorkshire Wolds accommodation providers rightly state that visitors can enjoy excellent cycling nearby, but for those from outside the area it is not always obvious where to start. This post is the first in the category ‘Ride Base Loops‘ that aims to give visiting cyclists at least five different loop options starting and ending at the same fixed base.

Solar-powered hot showers were built for the opening of Field House Campsite in 2021…

… with ‘eco’ toilets replacing the temporary portable chemical toilets in 2022…

… and a cyclist-friendly ‘coffee barn’ in 2023

NB some loops cross over main roads and occasionally travel a short distance along busier roads which shouldn’t trouble confident touring and road cyclists. However, the usual disclaimers apply about no liability being accepted as a result of following these suggested routes.

All rides are saved as ‘courses’ in Garmin Connect and those that have been recorded in Strava are created as ‘segments’. Quicklinks below for the rides from Field House Campsite, Tibthorpe:

Ride #1 – High Mowthorpe (38 miles, anti-clockwise) via Sledmere, West Lutton, Duggleby, Birdsall, Thixendale and Huggate

Links for the High Mowthorpe ride Garmin Connect activity and Strava segment.

Visit the page for Ride # 1 High Mowthorpe

Ride #2 – Snainton (58 miles, figure 8) via Wetwang, Sledmere, Sherburn, West Heslerton, Driffield and Hutton Cranswick.

The Snainton ride as a Garmin Connect course.

Visit the page for Ride # 2 – Snainton

Ride #3 – Castle Howard (64 miles, anti-clockwise) via Driffield, Cowlam, Settrington, Malton, Leavening, Millington Dale and Huggate.

The Castle Howard ride as a Garmin Connect course.

Visit the page for Ride # 3 – Castle Howard

Ride #4 – “Red Kite Bike Ride” Goodmanham (64 miles, largely clockwise) via Lund, Goodmanham, Pocklington, Millington, Warter, Huggate and North Dalton.

The “Red Kite Bike Ride” as a Garmin Connect course.

Visit the page for Ride # 4 – “Red Kite Bike Ride”

Ride #5 – “Trois Monts” Stamford Bridge and hills (50 miles, clockwise) via Millington Dale, Great Givendale, Bishop Wilton, and the climbs of Acklam, Hanging Grimston and Painsthorpe.

The “Trois Monts” ride in Garmin Connect.

Visit the page for Ride # 5 – “Trois Monts”, Acklam, Hanging Grimston and Painsthorpe via Stamford Bridge

Ride #6 – Goodmanham (33 miles, clockwise) via Lund, Burnby, Warter and Huggate.

The Goodmanham ride as a Garmin Connect course.

Visit the page for Ride #6 – Goodmanham via Lund, Burnby, Warter and Huggate

Ride #7 – Sykes Churches Trail (103 miles, various) via Weaverthorpe, Snainton, Driffield, Bishop Wilton and many other villages.

Visit the page for Ride #7 – The Sykes Churches Trail – A Cyclist’s Route

Ride #8 – Thixendale Hills – a taster ride. (50 miles, various)

A hilly loop including Water Dale and Burdale climbs.

Visit the page for Ride #8 – Thixendale Hills – a taster ride

Ride #9 – Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route. (107 miles, various)

David Hockney cycled in and around the Yorkshire Wolds as a youngster back in the 1950s. Other references to a ‘Hockney Trail’ invariably mention driving along (parts of) a suggested route. This ride, which could be enjoyed over two days, attempts to showcase the Yorkshire Wolds and Hockney locations with a challenging and rewarding route as it is best experienced – by bike.

Visit the page for Ride #9 – Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route

Next page

Straight over the crossroads on towards Helperthorpe. This is a stretch of the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route, but once in Helperthorpe you’ll be looking out for a left turn signposted “E Heslerton Wold” – there’s also a brown Byways sign on the post – that will take you off the long distance route and on to a road with a heavily shrouded tree-lined summit. It’s almost a relief that you’re not on this road for long – the way ahead at first appears ominously steep – before turning left and passing Haverdale House along a very broken road surface that makes for a quiet route – unless you’re on bike that rattles. This road will find any lurking noise.

The road out of Helperthorpe. If you have time there is a longer ride straight ahead, but on the Sledmere Big Skies Bike Ride it’s a left turn at the bottom of this hill

Along with the ride from Pocklington this a short loop that I first enjoyed when I had lost my cycling mojo somewhat and needed a sort of cycling pick-me-up. (There was a lovely serving of tea and scones back then, which always lifts the mood.)

Although this route is well worth the effort of seeking out in its own right it offers a glimpse of Snainton and Settrington routes which also have much to commend them. On the way back from Haverdale there is a drop in to West Lutton before taking the main road out west through the village and – on a rising bend – taking the right turn signposted ‘High Mowthorpe, Settrington’. Don’t miss it. This is a generally quiet road, but it does seem to have a fair bit of agricultural vehicles with those trailers pulled behind them. On another day you might wish to take in the descent in to Settrington, but a left turn, where the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route is picked up once more for the remainder of the ride – followed by even quieter roads takes you through Duggleby. I should find out more about Duggleby Howe and its nationally important round barrows – the largest in Britain.

There is less than a mile of mostly downhill road to Kirby Grindalythe and its Norman church. Before the long descent in to Sledmere there is the not inconsiderable bump in the road as the route passes over the OS map’s single chevron pointing towards the possibly wearying cyclist. On this and longer rides there is always the temptation of refreshments in Sledmere, and the good news is that the Coach House Café in the grounds of Sledmere House (this side of the turnstiles) has been newly renovated and looks to be rather well done.

I like this ride for the varying scenery and largely quiet, undulating roads. If the stats on Strava are anything to go by it’s not a route that has been ridden a great deal in comparison to some of the other Big Skies Bike Rides. Why not give it a try?

View this ride as a Garmin Connect activity or a Strava segment.

Download the PDF map for Sledmere Country from Sledmere

Related routes in Garmin Connect:

Snainton from Sledmere (30 miles)
Snainton from Hull (100 miles)

The B1246 east out of Pocklington is not the most pleasant way to start a bike ride, but the sightlines are good until the bend just before the turn off to Kilnwick Percy. (I’ll get this bit out of the way now: there is only one downside to this ride – but don’t let it put you off – as the road surface later between Burnby and Pocklington – at the time of writing – is not great.) [edit: the road surface between Burnby and Pocklington was resurfaced summer 2023] With the KP golf course to your left and the Kilnwick Percy Hall meditation centre to your right there is a steady incline before dropping down and then climbing gently to the pretty village of Millington. In normal times the Gait Inn and Ramblers’ Rest are recommended stops, and shared with the Western Wolds from Stamford Bridge Big Skies Bike Ride, a later addition to the series of rides, at this overlapping point.

As the view of the dale opens up after a tree-lined descent there is the satisfying ‘S’ bend to negotiate before reaching the valley floor (you may have seen this and the roads around Thixendale in ITV4′s brilliant Tour de Yorkshire video). I tend to hold out for a tailwind through Millington Dale, described back in 2010 by Cycling Plus as a ‘hidden gem – an intimate valley-floor shimmy through luscious micro-Alps’. The highly photogenic Highland cows only ever seem to come out to play when I have a tailwind. With a headwind I might stop for a rest and take a snap.

On my last ride I heard for the first time the distinctive call made by a pair of Red Kites wheeling about over the valley. Watch out for them – as well as for the on-road walkers who seem to have increased in number just lately. Just as all good things must come to an end the six miles from Kilnwick Percy and the final push through Millington Pastures finishes by ramping up a fair bit and can catch out those who haven’t left anything in reserve. At the ‘T’ junction a left turn and a few more uphill pedal strokes soon lead to a downhill stretch on to Huggate. (Do take care to scrub off your speed as you enter the village. On a ride to Whitby recently my ride buddies and I were delayed whilst waiting for the ambulance to pick up a chap who had come a cropper on the gravelly, right hand band.)

Millington Dale heading west

If you’re not in a rush the Wolds Inn has much to commend it – in these COVID times it currently offers a takeaway service by arrangement – but the route proper doesn’t go quite as far before taking a right turn to the long descent over Warter Wold. I’ve only ever ridden this road once uphill. It was teeming down as torrents of rainwater rushed by my front wheel as I lugged myself upwards. Perhaps that’s why I can’t bear the thought of going up that way again. Interestingly, the Pocklington Cycle Map suggests precisely that; its blue route (Ride 5: Challenging) does the Pocklington Big Skies Bike Ride in reverse. Maybe I’m just a bit set in my ways…

In Warter – watch out for the abrupt end to the road at the junction with the B1246 – it’s a right turn then uphill for a hundred yards or so before bearing left at the memorial and on to Back Lane (there’s also a car park which is suggested in the Millington Dale and Warter from Pocklington guide as an alternative start point).

Back Lane from Warter is a beautiful, undulating, twisting route but it’s fairly narrow so watch out – the school bus passes along it – which ends after a sudden drop at the base of Totterdown (Nunburnholme) Hill. Thankfully, we turn right here rather than going left and upwards as we make our way to Burnby. One day I’ll find out if the impressive two bells in the church tower still work.

This is a lovely ride I first did a decade ago when I picked up the excellent Big Skies Bike Rides guide. Millington Dale is a highlight of both the Way of the Roses and Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route and is well worth the effort of seeking out.

Millington Dale looking east

See also a Strava segment for this route.

Related post:

A wonderful 50-mile loop from Pocklington >>>

Compare that to the map on the Yorkshire Red Kites web site that also details the reintroduction programme of 1999 at Harewood Estate in West Yorkshire.

Over the past few years I have noticed these magnificent birds more frequently whilst cycling around particular parts of the Yorkshire Wolds. So I thought I’d put together a ride that takes in most of the places where I’ve spotted Red Kite. The route is a little under forty miles long.

From Etton the route goes gently upwards before dropping in to the shallow Kiplingcotes valley, over the crossroads and up again, passing the start point of the Kiplingcotes Derby. That route is followed over the next crossroads before ramping up for another at Money Hill. The ‘Kiplingcotes’ sign that once pointed further north has been missing for a while now, but we’re turning left on to a lumpy road and heading for Goodmanham. Here I saw the unmistakable markings of a solitary Red Kite over Goodmanmham Wold some way in the distance to the north.

Flooding around Goodmanham meant I had to divert through Market Weighton before picking up the route towards Londesborough then Burnby and Nunburnholme. I also had to switch off the auto-pilot that would have steered me towards Kilnwick Percy or Pocklington, but it was less of a wrench to take the back road to Warter at the foot of Totterdown (Nunburnholme) Hill – that climb is one I no longer care for.

Back Lane between Nunburnholme and Warter

The skies above the woods on the approach to Warter – take care on the undulating road with its rough surface in parts – are usually a safe bet for spotting birds of prey, but I saw none here this day. After the village sign on the outskirts of Warter I prefer to bear left (signposted Pocklington) rather than pass by the distinctive cottages opposite the war memorial. A right turn on the B1246 is quickly followed a hundred yards or so later with a left turn and the start of a long, gradual climb from Warter to Cold Wold on the way to Huggate. (The route could be shortened by cutting out Huggate, instead going past the war memorial, travelling east for a minute or so then carefully taking the right turn whilst still in Warter opposite the pond.)

Looking back on the first hill out of Warter with Bailey Dale beyond. Bailey Lane is also the way out of Warter after the detour via Huggate.

In Huggate a right turn before the Wolds Inn leads back to Warter over Warter Wold. Again at the B1246 in the village a right turn is followed quickly by a left turn, opposite the pond, and the start of an always enjoyable climb along Bailey Lane. As an aside I find this a far more rewarding climb than Nunburnholme Hill – another road that leads to the same ridge. For me there is a greater sense of openness, the road wider and the views – especially over and down to the left – are much more pleasant. Oh, and it’s not as steep.

The road out of Warter, through Bailey Dale, also gave me my second and final Red Kite sighting of the day. The bird appeared overhead to my right and glided over the road without a single wing beat. I watched it for as long as I could crane my neck to see the kite whilst still riding safely on towards the T junction at the top of the now easing climb.

Either direction from the junction ultimately leads to a thrilling, long descent, but here I turn left and follow the signs towards Middleton-on-the-Wolds. Making three right turns in Middleton-on-the-Wolds sends us west along the A614 that passes through the village, but only for a couple of hundred yards before taking the left turn on to Holme on the Wolds. (On the ride before this one I saw for the first time Red Kite over Lund Wold which this ride passes by here.) From Holme on the Wolds it’s on through South Dalton and the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route signs directing riders along Warter Road, effectively Etton’s back road, so that you enter the village via the tradesman’s entrance rather than along its main street. (The provisional Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route originally passed through Etton before being amended, and that’s the way I went this day on the beginning of the ‘Red Kite Bike Ride’; it’s my recommendation if you haven’t seen the landmark St Mary’s spire gradually revealed as you pop up over the little ramp between Etton and South Dalton, just like in that video made to promote the Tour de Yorkshire.)

Perhaps I could have timed my midday ride better – apparently, it’s more likely that you will see Red Kite late in the afternoon – but Yorkshire Wolds cyclists are blessed with varied and interesting scenery, mostly quiet roads and occasionally testing climbs that makes a ride such as this one more than worthwhile in its own right. I’ll be back to try it again soon…

Ideally, I would have been able to create some clever Strava Art in the shape of a fork-tailed bird of prey, instead of a care-worn bat or some sort of flying squirrel. Whatever. At any rate I created a course in Garmin Connect which I didn’t follow on the day because of flooding at Goodmanham (edit: link to Strava activity updated July 2021)

… even more out of focus, but this angle shows a clearer outline of the characteristic forked tail that distinguishes the Red Kite from the Common Buzzard with its more rounded fan-shaped tail ???? pic.twitter.com/ODlKpZb0La

— Cycling the Yorkshire Wolds (@CycleTheWolds) October 23, 2020

Edit January 2024: the original ‘Red Kite Bike Ride’ route, of less than 40 miles, has since been expanded to a 100km version. Garmin activities, which includes the joyful, gentle climb through Millington Dale, can viewed for either a southern start point (Etton) or a northern one (ride #4 from Field House Campsite). Both versions also include a fast, freewheeling descent from the top of Baggaby Hill, the shallow climb out of North Dalton, the descent from Huggate to Tibthorpe, and a pleasant meander over Lund Wold – all delightful additions to the original route.

The 100km version of a Yorkshire Wolds Red Kite Bike Ride, from Field House campsite

Stops along the route

Like many of the cycle rides to be enjoyed on the Yorkshire Wolds this ‘Yorkshire Wolds Red Kite Bike Ride’ has no railway crossings or traffic lights, and only one roundabout along the route (unless, like me when I did this ride, you find yourself passing through Market Weighton on your journey), so you can expect to tap along with minimal stops if you wanted to use this ride just for fitness; there are a couple of moderate hills to test your climbing legs. But you would be potentially missing out on lovely views – Red Kite sightings and more – if you focused your attention purely on thrashing around or watching the numbers on your GPS device. Similarly, when permitted, there are a number of tempting places to take refreshments depending on where you start your ride, including the Michelin-starred Pipe & Glass in South Dalton; the Fiddle Drill in Goodmanham, and Rose’s Walnut Cottage Tea Room, and the Wolds Inn, which are both in Huggate. More details on these and other cyclist-friendly places can be found on the Eat & Drink page of this web site.

On subsequent undertakings of this route I have parked in Goodmanham and ridden from there. Crossing the busy B1248 – twice – and having to spring open the Dalton Park gate at the Pipe and Glass means that the route is not exactly suited to being a time trial course, but when time is short – or fitness levels low – I have used the gently undulating road to test my fitness – or confirm the lack of it. But the main purpose of this and the other Big Skies Bike Rides is to explore the wonderful Yorkshire Wolds by bike – and for the Market Weighton ride there is something of a pub theme going on…

From the car park in Goodmanham – the recommended alternative start point – I roll down the hill before taking the left turn at the outskirts of the village and cycling up and over the little bridge to the crossroads at the top. Market Weighton is to your right, but a left turn here puts you on the route proper and along the Kiplingcotes Valley.

It’s worth checking the weather forecast

Watch out for the pinch point as you pass underneath the impressive structure that once carried the now disused railway line through Lord Hotham’s land – the Hudson Way. A little further on is a crossroads – don’t turn left here yet. (There used to be a cafe to the right, that I can vaguely recollect, called ‘Granny’s Attic’. It is now a private dwelling and furniture store. Much of the old station building remains.)

Carry on along the valley floor and at the next crossroads take the sharp left uphill along the course of the Kiplingcotes Derby, reportedly the longest-running horse race still in existence. All the momentum gathered along the valley will have been lost on the tight bend – almost always sprinkled with gravel. A jab at the pedals gets you over the first few yards and you’ll soon be levelling to the starting point of this 500-year-old horse race.

Taking the next two right turns sends you downhill towards Dalton Park and over the cattle grid through the private estate road and the gate that opens at East Yorkshire’s premier gastro pub.

One day I’ll take up the offer – staked on to little posts around the village – and go inside St Mary’s church, its splendid steeple the inspiration for the Yorkshire Wolds logo.

Watch out for the ducks and their ducklings at Mere Lane, South Dalton when they spill out on to the road

Mere Lane takes you across the B1248 – there are good sight lines, but do take care – and on to Lockington, where you are invited to try fording the narrow waterway – and invitation I have always politely declined.

After Lockington a gentle uphill section brings the thirsty rider to the second of three pubs encountered – not including those in Market Weighton itself – in less than twenty miles. It’s a while since I’ve eaten there, but the Wellington Arms in Lund is particularly well regarded.

Wellington Inn, Lund

Follow the signs through Lund and take care again at your second crossing of the B1248, on to more gentle uphill capers past Lund House farm and up to the left-hand bend that signals a brief descent to the crossroads at the bottom of the hill. Try to stay on the big ring towards the next junction – I never can – and bear right back towards the starting point of your journey.

Once comfortably past the little dink at that last junction I’m back on the big ring and trying to get away with the chain deflection that comes with a 23T rear sprocket. Unless I surrender to a headwind I find that I’m engaged with a slightly unhealthy competition with myself to get to the top of the long and deceptive drag in as quick a time as possible. The summit or thereabouts is a crossing point for the Kiplingcotes Derby, but for us it’s a warm up for the long downhill stretch over Goodmanham Wold. Keep an eye out for the birds of prey often seen circling over the woods to your left and enjoy the views – but hover over your brakes – on the fast descent in to the village.

If, like me, you start in Goodmanham the ride could be over in not much more than an hour, but it’s not a race and you’ve got another potential pit stop in the Goodmanham Arms. If you don’t fancy refreshments in the pub – it has its own microbrewery, apparently – and haven’t tried it yet I recommend the Fiddle Drill – just within the village near the top of the hill and on your right – for a range of delicious food in a very pleasant and spacious barn conversion.

Big Skies Bike Rides: South Dalton, Lockington and Lund from Market Weighton .pdf map, an activity in Garmin Connect and as a Strava segment

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