Anyone in the Yorkshire Wolds area wanting to see whether an e-bike is for them can now have a try thanks to ‘The Old Cog and Sprocket’, Tibthorpe. The place, which occupies a corner of Field House Coffee Barn, is run by Andrew, who formerly had a workshop in nearby Driffield. (You can have your bike repaired there too, just not on Sundays it appears, although it is possible to drop off when the cafe is open, it seems.)

I’m thinking of borrowing a bike for a quick spin. By an astonishing coincidence I have put together a selection of route options that can be ridden from ‘The Old Cog & Sprocket’. I’m curious to find out what sort of range these bikes have. Perhaps I’ll give the Goodmanham loop a go. Watch this space…

I rode this ride eleven years ago to the day. The occasion was part of a local tourism body outdoors festival that has taken place in various forms over the years each September. I met Rupert Douglas, co-creator of the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route, Big Skies Bike Rides and Way of the Roses, to do this hilly loop from the free carpark in Stamford Bridge. This is an extract from a blog post I wrote back in 2013…

Last weekend I took a 30-mile cycle ride with Rupert Douglas, creator of the Big Skies Bike Rides that I have written about over the last couple of years. The ride wasn’t one of the eight circular routes described previously, being longer, harder and starting further from the Yorkshire Wolds than any of the others.

Stamford Bridge is an ideal base from which to cycle on to the western escarpment of the Yorkshire Wolds – the steepest area. This ride passed through Acklam in North Yorkshire then on to the attractive East Yorkshire villages of Millington, Great Givendale and Bishop Wilton. There are few opportunities for refreshments along the way, but we made use of an extended stop at the Ramblers’ Rest. Unusually there weren’t many cyclists at the tables outside, which was a pity; I couldn’t recall a better day for cycling in the Yorkshire Wolds this year. It was glorious.

I had always thought of Stamford Bridge as being in North Yorkshire, but apparently it falls within the East Riding of Yorkshire. Anyway, this ride was advertised as part of the Walking and Outdoor Festival by ‘Visit Hull and East Yorkshire’ (14th – 22nd September). Patrick and I had tried to follow this route last year and after taking the little bridge over the River Derwent we travelled north before turning east towards Buttercrambe. It wasn’t long before we turned off the ever-so-slightly main road and headed for Barthorpe. This is a lovely road and we rode side by side without any traffic to bother us as we gabbed all the way about cycling stuff. The conversation became tougher as the roads around Acklam pointed upwards and here we took a different, supposedly easier, route from the one Patrick and I had taken up Thrussendale Road. It was still a stiff little climb.

Past the communications mast it was on to the familiar Roman road and the gradual, gentle incline to Garrowby Hill – the highest point of the Yorkshire Wolds. On a clear day such as this one there are excellent views over the Vale of York. After crossing the A166 it is always a pleasure to descend to Millington, whether stopping for something to eat or drink or not.

From Millington we went out on a road I had never ridden before. A thrilling descent followed before the struggle to regain height once more on the steady climb to Great Givendale. I’m not sure I could have captured the beauty of the early autumn scene as a herd of cows grazed around a pond. I’ve been cycling in this area for more than thirty years and I’ve never seen that particular view before. Perhaps it’s just as well I didn’t pause to take a photograph. We were running late after the longish stop in Millington and I would probably have been disappointed at my efforts to do justice to the scene.

Another unfamiliar and splendid road led us to Bishop Wilton and another diversion from last year’s route. Rupert had arrived in Stamford Bridge with his road bike on the back of the car, and didn’t fancy the bridleway Patrick and I had taken last year. So an alternative route along the road known locally as Snake Lane. True to its name it wriggled and twisted for much of its length. Fortnately the motorists we met took to the grass verges as they passed us in the opposite direction. We crossed the minor, but busy, road between Pocklington and Stamford Bridge and took the quiet alternative route back to the car park there.

I should probably have dared to take more than one photograph, but the ride was advertised as being one ridden at a brisk pace (a little under 14mph as it turned out) and I didn’t want to slow things down any further. This was a superb route and although I would happily have gone along the bridleway with my 28mm Gatorskins I particularly enjoyed the Snake Lane diversion. And I especially enjoyed chatting with Rupert Douglas about cycling in the Yorkshire Wolds and beyond. As well as putting together the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route he is also the creator of the Way of the Roses coast-to-coast route – wayoftheroses.info – is the only official site.

Patrick takes the alternative route via the track after High Belthorpe on the Western Wolds Big Skies Bike Ride

(As mentioned, the Stamford Bridge Big Skies Bike Ride was not one of the original eight – the others start from Wolds-edge towns and villages that feature on the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route – and perhaps that’s why the ride no longer features on the East Riding council’s list of these routes. Yes, there is a potentially busy road northwest out of Stamford Bridge, but I’m not sure if that’s why it can’t be found easily any more. At any rate we can use the Wayback Machine for the Western Wolds Big Skies Bike Ride map.)

In the decade that followed that ride with Rupert I’ve passed through Bishop Wilton on a number of occasions. Many of the visits have been to check out potential routes for the Sykes Churches Trail and to make use of the excellent community shop, which is run by volunteers, as described by Sarah-May Buccieri for the BBC after the Times newspaper listed Bishop Wilton as one of the best secret villages in which to live.

Thrussendale Road – detailed by Roger England in his excellent Hill Climbs on the Yorkshire Wolds – leads out of Bishop Wilton on its way up to the A166. It’s a pity that the cycle track on the southern path at Garrowby Hill doesn’t extend to the top of Thrussendale Road as this would open up further route opportunities for touring cyclists and roadies alike without having to face the terrifically busy main road.

View the Garmin Course of the Western Wolds Big Skies Bike Ride.

Even before a well-received exhibition of ‘A Bigger Picture’ at the Royal Academy in 2012, Visit Hull & East Yorkshire tried to raise the profile of ‘Hockney Country’ and bring tourists in to this relatively overlooked part of the county. At some point those responsible for tourism in East Yorkshire and the Wolds, with the help of Rupert Douglas, set about creating eight (later nine) ‘Big Skies Bike Rides’, borrowing a phrase Hockney used to describe the skies over the American West. The Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route includes a number of Hockney locations; however, despite most of those short, circular Big Skies Bike Rides covering the roads travelled by Hockney, there doesn’t seem to have been any attempt made to combine all of the locations chosen by the man himself and link them all together. This post aims to do just that. ‘Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route’ is a little over 100 miles and (with the exception of the busy A166 at Garrowby Hill) takes in all known places studied by ‘Britain’s favourite living artist’.

In trying to avoid main roads as much as possible – and to limit going over the same ground – the route falls naturally in to two distinct parts. The eastern section goes out to the coast through Kilham via Thwing and then Rudston and the standing stone there before returning again through Kilham after the shallow climb of Woldgate. The western section sits entirely within the “candidate area” currently being assessed by Natural England for Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty status. (It seems fair to suggest that the epithet ‘Hockney Country’ has given some renewed impetus for this long overdue designation.) The western section is less spread out and is a loop taking in a number of Wolds favourites.

Take a minor detour to visit Britain’s tallest megalith. It would be rood not to…

Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route – overview

You can view both the Garmin Activity and Strava segment for this Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route. (Edit August 2024: these links updated to include the climb up to Cowlam in order to view ‘A Road Across the Wolds‘.) I am indebted to Simon Gregson for his detailed analysis of the Hockney locations. Although all images here are my own – you will note that I dutifully observe Hockney’s assertion that “you can’t photograph the landscapes here” – I reproduce in limited form some of the information Simon gathered, specifically the grid references first published on www.yocc.co.uk, since delisted.

Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route outline in Garmin Connect

In the version of the route detailed here we start at Huggate, one of the highest villages on the Wolds, although I first rode the full course from nearby Field House campsite, an excellent base for Yorkshire Wolds day rides. (Alternative places to begin the ride might include Sledmere, Weaverthorpe – or even Bempton if choosing to arrive by train.) From Huggate the route drops to Wetwang then climbs to Sledmere along Life Hill.

(St Andrew’s, Kirby Grindalythe on the Sykes Churches Trail is notable for its mosaic by the Venice and Murano Glass & Mosaic Co. depicting the Ascension. At barely a dozen miles in to the ride it is perhaps too soon to make a stop, but its west wall is a rather impressive affair.)

From Kirby Grindalythe we travel along the ‘Great Wold Valley’ and pick up the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route as far as the outskirts of Foxholes before taking the road to Thwing. Our first visit to Kilham is preceded by our first Hockney locations – not pictured – ‘The Road to Thwing, Late Spring‘ (Grid: TA 05801 66398), albeit viewed over the shoulder, along with ‘Harvesting Near the Road to Thwing‘ are followed by ‘Hawthorn Blossom near Rudston‘ (not listed on yocc.co.uk).

‘Hawthorn Blossom near Rudston‘. Er, probably

‘Track and Hedgerow‘ (Grid: TA 08862 66665) just before Rudston and painted in January 2006 featured in the last of the 80 outtakes from Bruce Wollheim from his 2010 documentary.

Moving on from there towards Grindale via Rudston – with a short, lumpy stretch of occasionally busy road – gets us back on the YWCR and Buckton, Bempton, Sewerby and Bridlington. There are galleries in Bridlington as well as plenty of places to eat, but my recommendation would be The Gallery Tea Rooms in Buckton which, rather neatly, doubles as a gallery for watercolour artist Richard Burton.

The Gallery Tea Rooms, Buckton

All the way from Grindale the trail deliberately follows the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route to deliver us to Woldgate and the concentration of places Hockney chose to study in oil and iPad.

There are numerous Woldgate locations detailed by Simon Gregson on www.yocc.co.uk, most of which I haven’t photographed, but which can be viewed from the laybys that pepper this Roman road. The exception would appear to be ‘Walnut Trees‘ (Grid: TA 13622 67512.) Simon suggests a stop at ‘Woldgate Woods‘ (Grid: TA 13723 67017) and that by “parking your car there, you can [...] go down the hill following a track to Boynton. It is down this track that ‘Walnut Trees’ was painted.”

The Woldgate locations between Bessingby Hill (Bridlington) and Kilham

In following the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route (and the Way of the Roses) from the Bridlington coast the trail makes its way to Woldgate. It avoids a Hockney location at this point, but for those wishing to scrupulously observe each point of interest – albeit this particular one filmed rather than painted – a detour from the Garmin/Strava route is not far: ‘25 Trees between Bridlington School and Morrison’s supermarket along Bessingby Road in the Semi-Egyptian style‘ (Grid: TA 17217 66786). See the Bessingby Road page from Visit East Yorkshire’s web site for a minor detour if you wish. Best viewed from the entrance to the fire station, apparently.

Back on to Woldgate and the places of interest come thick and fast. What follows is a list of locations you may wish to keep an eye out for…

‘Woldgate Tree‘ (Grid: TA 15630 67353) and nearby ‘Lovely Day with Puddles‘, ‘Woldgate Winter Tree, 2006‘ and ‘Road and Two Trees East Yorkshire‘.

‘The Arrival of Spring‘ (Grid: TA 14520 67316)

‘Woldgate Woods‘ (Grid: TA 13723 67019) and from there the track towards Boynton and ‘Walnut Trees‘ (Grid: TA 13622 67512) as detailed earlier – ‘Walnut Trees‘ is not on the Garmin/Strava route for this ride.

‘Winter Timber‘ (Grid: TA 13206 66872), and a totem since cut down by vandals. Just beyond this a right turn heads towards Boynton. Apparently, at the edge of the woods down the hill the painting ‘Roads and Cornfields‘ was created, as well as the watercolour ‘After Rain‘.

‘Early Blossom Woldgate‘ (Grid: TA 12011 66380) before a hedgerow in the left and a small lane across the fields. The painting was made looking towards Kilham.

Woldgate leads directly to Kilham where ‘Midsummer‘, and the puddle and tunnel locations follow in quick succession.

‘Midsummer‘ (Grid: TA 06516 64423) the view of the church from East Street is one from the ‘Midsummer’ series.

‘Puddle Near Kilham‘ (Grid: TA 05093 64620), it seems likely…

‘Late Spring Tunnel’, Kilham (Grid: TA 04814 64760)

After the tunnel continue on the road to Langtoft (just before the village ‘Tracks into a Wheatfield near Langtoft‘ is on the right beyond a gated entrance).

‘Tracks into a Wheatfield near Langtoft‘ (Grid: TA 01433 66160)

Once in the village take the second exit north on the mini-roundabout and a short uphill stretch of the B1249 before picking up the minor road left along the road towards Sledmere. (Note also that St Peter’s, Langtoft is a significant church sadly omitted from the Sykes Churches Trail: A Cyclist’s route. Follow the brown tourist signs for a short diversion if you would like to tick this one off.) This ultimately brings us back to the Great Wold Valley near Helperthorpe, where the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route is picked up again briefly before a turning left at the crossroads at the bottom of the hill to head up to Cowlam and go along ‘The Road Across the Wolds‘.

Collingwood House from ‘The Road Across the Wolds’

(At the top of the climb to the Cowlam crossroads we head down to Sledmere passing Collingwood House which features in that oil on canvas painting. The B1253 can be busy, but even this risk averse cyclist isn’t fazed by the mostly downhill stretch in to Sledmere. Just don’t ride it uphill would be my advice.)

The rotunda seen in ‘The Road to York Through Sledmere‘

A word of caution. The mostly downhill stretch of the B1251 from Sledmere heading west has caused me no upset, but it’s arguably not for the squeamish. (It can be busy, but I can always get a move on; I wouldn’t choose to ride in the opposite direction uphill, though.) The Big G Sportive takes this road as far as the roundabout near the picnic area and Yorkshire Wolds Railway sidings – before heading north along the B1248 – but we go straight over the roundabout and continue along the B1251 on the way to the village of Fimber, carefully taking the right turn to Burdale. We’re heading to Thixendale now along the narrow valley road that has become rather busy in recent times. There is just enough room on the far side of the road to pull over in to the scrape of a layby-cum-passing place and view ‘Three Trees near Thixendale‘.

‘Three Trees near Thixendale‘ (Grid: SE 86822 62287)

In Thixendale (Cross Keys pub, village hall refreshments Sundays only) take the steep road immediately beside the village hall and head up towards the Roman road. Once over, take particular care on the steep descent through Uncleby Wold, follow the road around and take a left to pass through Kirby Underdale and drop again before the climb of Painsthorpe Lane.

‘Bugthorpe Valley’(Grid: SE 82216 58275) or Painsthorpe Dale near the top of the road out of Kirby Underdale

At the Roman road again, take a left and then a right along the ‘Fuller Gallery Road’. Regular viewers of the BBC’s The One Show will be familiar with Robert Fuller’s wildlife videos that allow us to share moments from the lives, loves – and occasionally deaths – of stoats, kestrels and owls etc. The gallery is an impressive setup.

Fuller Gallery, Fotherdale, Yorkshire Wolds

At the bottom of the gallery’s road take the sharp right uphill towards Huggate. The trailer for Bruno Wollheim’s ‘David Hockney: A Bigger Picture’ documentary shows the artist and his assistant struggling with the wind as they wrestle with an easel and the quickly changing light.

The painting shown in this Huggate Road scene from the trailer is not specifically referred to as ‘A Bigger Picture’ exhibited work – perhaps it was never completed – but the view is over to Fotherdale and the Fuller Gallery

(As we near the layby on the left of Huggate Road we see where Hockney pulled over to set up on the opposite side of the single track road. Further along is where ‘Wheat Field near Fridaythorpe‘ (Grid SE 84462 60096) was painted. It featured on the August 2020 cover of British Vogue.)

Over the A166 – a very busy road – I don’t go as far as Huggate just yet, instead picking up the clockwise Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route in the direction of ‘Garrowby Hill‘. However, rather than revisiting that main road at the staggered crossing of the A166 – detour if you must be faithful to all of the Hockney locations – I stay on the road, bearing left, and drop down the hill in the direction of Givendale. Watch out for a tight left turn towards Millington that you’ll need to take, though.

On this route I don’t go in to the village itself, but the attractions there include the Gait Inn, Ramblers’ Rest tearoom and a repurposed phone box converted to provide spares and tools for passing cyclists.

Millington Dale is a beautiful and rewarding valley to pass through on any cycle ride. It brings us towards Huggate.

‘Wider Valley, Millington‘ (Grid: SE 84790 53949) on both the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route and Way of the Roses

NB The Garmin/Strava routes don’t show a diversion immediately before Huggate, but those wishing to visit the location for ‘Huggate’s St Mary’s Church Spire‘ can follow the blue cycle route signs pointing in the direction of the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route. After a few hundred metres look for a layby on the opposite side of the road from which the church can be seen.

‘Huggate’s St Mary’s Church Spire‘ (Grid: SE 87336 55336) on a drizzly day. Note that you will need to detour slightly from the Garmin/Strava course to view this scene

If you have taken the short out-and-back to view St Mary’s Church spire, Hugggate from the York Road, return to enter the village then take the right turn before the Wolds Inn and continue on to Warter. A right turn at the B1246 T junction and a left turn opposite the village pond will take you to Bailey Dale and the climb of Bailey Lane to ‘Warter Vista‘ (Grid: SE 87765 49310), which can’t really be viewed without stopping at the roadside and taking a look back down the dale.

At the end of this road there is an unremarkable clump of trees over on the right. They were planted to replace those chopped down before Hockney could finish painting them for the third and fourth seasons – ‘Bigger Trees Nearer Warter, 2008‘ (Grid: SE 88432 48763) – see this Hockney Foundation video (not to be confused with the final location on this tour). Instead, we have ‘Less Trees near Warter‘, which would appear to have been created not long after the trees were felled.

The last painting on this Hockney Trail was one I found particularly difficult to photograph for inclusion here. I actually went to see ‘Bigger Trees near Warter‘ (Grid: SE 89487 50188) at Ferens Art Gallery, Hull some years ago. The fifty panels were curved at the sides. Was it to suggest the way that nature envelops us as we are inexorably drawn in to it? Or something. No, there simply wasn’t enough space to display the full installation, and so they had to curl the edges round to fit it all in the room. Similarly, I couldn’t get far enough back to photograph the full view of it in the flesh, as Hockney himself admits:

Bruno Wollheim: “The view you’ve got must be way back there.”

David Hockney: “Yes, it is, yeah. Well, in your head you can go anywhere. Didn’t you know that?”

Watch one of the 80 outtakes released on Hockney’s 80th birthday: Outtake 5/80 ‘Sketching Bigger Trees Near Warter, 19th April 2006′ by Bruno Wollheim on YouTube for a view on site.

The ‘Bigger Trees Near Warter’ at spring time

So, all that remains is an enjoyable, long shallow descent to Middleton on the Wolds then the drag out of North Dalton back in the direction of Huggate before returning to the start point of this Hockney Trail: A Cyclist’s Route.

Actually, the final word for now should probably go to the man himself. Enjoy the ride. Enjoy the space…

I worked on a farm. I cycled around here for two summers… You get to know it’s hilly if you’re cycling. I was always attracted to it. I always thought it had space. One of the thrills of landscape is that it’s a spatial experience.

Note: this page was amended August 2024 to include the Cowlam climb in order to pass through the scenery depicted in ‘The Road Across the Wolds‘.

After discussing Hanging Grimston and Uncleby Hill, Roger England, in his excellent Hill Climbs on the Yorkshire Wolds, goes on to describe Painsthorpe Lane:

The third climb is the popular Painsthorpe road which ascends from the church and quickly steepens to 17% as it passes the Hall before easing back to 10% approaching the hamlet of Painsthorpe. From here it is an easy 5% to the top of the wold. This route should be familiar to those who have completed the 70-mile version of the George Herbert Stancer standard ride.

I’ve ridden up Painsthorpe Lane – never down – mostly on the GHS rides on the way to a nice pot of tea at Thixendale Village Hall (only open Sundays). For the most recent ride on that memorial event I was piloting the tandem with my stoker merrily chatting away as I tried to avoid both the steep drop offs at the side of the road and excessive oxygen debt. It is well worth the effort, however, and as always the Roman Road at the top of the climb offers numerous options in either direction. This Yorkshire Wolds hill is included in Simon Warren’s essential ‘Cycling Climbs of Yorkshire: A Road Cyclist’s Guide‘, albeit with a relatively tame score of 3/10.

Painsthorpe Lane as a Strava segment

Some route suggestions:

‘Trois Monts‘ (Thrussendale Road (Acklam), Hanging Grimston and Painsthorpe Lane) from near Huggate

A potential Hockney-themed western Wolds route in Garmin Connect from the same start point

The public car park just outside the village of Huggate provides an excellent alternative to the start point of the rides listed above. Refreshments available at the highly recommended Wolds Inn

Approaching the Green Lane climb from Helperthorpe

And so I put together a few routes that first went right at the T junction that is ultimately arrived at on the way to Sherburn via the twisting descent of Sherburn Grits. From Sherburn I invariably head north to Snainton over the Vale of Pickering before returning to the Wolds via Yedingham and West Heslerton. However, I thought I’d try a left turn at that T junction and I wasn’t disappointed. Though it would make the ride much shorter, the descent of Whin Moor (given the name “Watch Out For The Cars?” by some Strava wag) is an absolute joy, with beautiful pastoral scenery that flashes by on the way back to West Lutton. (To be fair, you really should watch out for the cars on this twisting freefall.)

To my surprise I find that, with just three rides in as many months, it seems that I am the (not so) ‘local legend’ for this Strava segment, over in a different county to my own. Where are you all?

Just like Grimston Brow (Luddith Road) this is an unthreatening climb, and perhaps overlooked, but is one that opens up yet further route options for the Yorkshire Wolds cyclist, adding to the almost limitless possibilities offered by the network of quiet lanes in this beautiful area. If you haven’t already made it out that way I thoroughly recommend it.

View Green Ln Climb in Strava

Related routes:

Green Lane climb from Sledmere in Garmin Connect (30 miles)
Green Lane climb from Middleton-on-the-Wolds in Garmin Connect (40 miles)
Green Lane climb and on to Snainton from Hull in Garmin Connect (100 miles)
Sykes Churches Trail from Field House Farm campsite (100 miles)

I also like to climb this hill on longer rides from my home on the flatlands of East Yorkshire. A ride out to the foothills of the North York Moors is a rewarding return for a long day in the saddle, and White Gate is a deserved treat after those flat miles between the Moors and the Wolds. Pedal smartly away from the staggered crossing of the A64 and start to sort out your gears ready for slipping on to a larger rear sprocket. (I should point out that there appears to be a roadside cycle track along the A64 between Sherburn and West Heslerton, but I prefer the loop to Snainton rather than having my nerves shredded by the rumble of (fairly close) passing lorries and countless motorcars.)

The road gently ramps up and before long I am in that bottom gear and trying to maintain some sort of momentum. My Garmin device invariably makes the disapproving beep that signals either exceptionally slow speed, or that I am passing under the cover of overhanging trees and the GPS signal has been temporarily lost. The road then bears to the left and soon after follows a right-hand bend that provides no respite. The top of the climb is hidden from view, so just keep turning those pedals until the two road signs come in to view near the top of the hill. Try to snatch a glimpse over your shoulder to appreciate the view behind and perhaps prepare yourself for the lumpy roads towards Cowlam and Sledmere that follow.

View White Gate (West Heslerton Wold) in Strava

Here’s an extract from Roger England’s excellent Hill Climbs on the Yorkshire Wolds:

… West Heslerton which has been used on the Milk Race, is another tough climb. Don’t be misled by the 16% sign at the bottom – the middle section is consistently steep with gradients between 12% and 17% for 400 metres.

Simon Warren, in his highly recommended Cycling Climbs of Yorkshire: A Road Cyclist’s Guide, gives White Gate a rating of 3/10, in comparison to Nunburnholme Hill at 2/10 and Hanging Grimston at 4/10.

Related routes:

West Heslerton Wold via Snainton from Sledmere in Garmin Connect (30 miles)
West Heslerton Wold via Snainton from Hull in Garmin Connect (100 miles)
Sykes Churches Trail from Field House Farm campsite (100 miles)

Beyond the buildings the road soon opens up a rather lovely view and a very satisfying sense of remoteness. Whenever I write about this hill I am at pains to point out that cows – and, we’re told, a bull – roam the open-gated fields between the cattle grids at the top and bottom of this climb. (The recent judicious use of a partly worn non-scratch scourer on the underside of my brake calipers is a reminder that the road is far from out of bounds for these roaming bovines.)

I’ve actually never turned around having seen loose cattle, but returning to that junction and following the signs to Birdsall – with the prospect of climbing Birdsall Brow – is a pleasant enough alternative, so it’s not the end of the world. One time on a solo descent, having passed the point of no return, I inadvertently triggered something of a stampede reminiscent of a scene from Jurassic Park, and was relieved to reach the sanctuary provided by rolling over the lower cattle grid. But I digress.

On a rainy ride from Sledmere with friends, in the days before the road was resurfaced

Up until quite recently an added challenge on this admittedly shallow climb was the condition of the badly damaged tarmac, but happily this was resurfaced a few years ago and we are freer to admire the view rather than pick our way through rut and pothole. In fact the entire section of road that ultimately leads to the T junction a mile or so further has been repaired and it’s possible to set up a nice tempo – for me invariably leading to the thrilling descent towards Birsdall – after completing this fairly remote climb.

The first time I cycled Luddith Road, as part of the ‘Big Skies Bike Rides: Thixendale from Malton or Norton on Derwent‘

Barely 500 cyclists on Strava have recorded taking on this quietly testing hill set in lovely scenery. If you’re not yet one of them, and you would like a bit of a challenge as part of a longer ride surrounded by wonderful views, I recommend this climb. Just watch out for the you-know-what.

‘Luddith Rd Climb’ ride segment in Strava

Related post: Thixendale and Sledmere from Pocklington

In 2022 a free car park opened just outside the eastern edge of nearby Huggate, that would make an ideal start point. This isn’t a long ride, but you would be forgiven for taking refreshments in the newly refurbished Wolds Inn afterwards. So here is a suggested route. What’s yours…?

If arriving by car I avoid parking in Thixendale itself – there’s not a lot of free space – instead using the public parking available in places such as Goodmanham and Warter, or here on the eastern edge of Huggate, although on this ride I started from slightly further afield

The photograph at the top of this post was taken on the descent of Huggate Road, a hill I would ordinarily prefer to climb. However, a priority here was to avoid going up some of the stiffer, busier roads so I dropped in to Thixendale after crossing the A166 that marks the boundary there between the East Riding of Yorkshire and North Yorkshire. Here’s a quick summary of the day’s route option:

1. Descent of Huggate Road (preferred as an ascent, because it’s too steep and gravelly to best enjoy downhill)
2. Ascent of Water Dale* (preferred as an ascent, but great either way)
3. Descent of the ‘Fuller Gallery’ road* (preferred as an descent as it’s rather tight and twisty)
4. Ascent of Burdale (preferred for the same reasons as Huggate Road)
5. Descent of Fridaythorpe to Thixendale road (preferred for the same reasons as the ‘Fuller Gallery’ road)
6. Ascent of the road next to Thixendale Village hall (no real preference, but usually quiet, although a heavily rutted surface)

*The descent of the ‘Fuller Gallery’ road and the ascent of Water Dale – in that order – are part of the recommended, clockwise version of the Yorkshire Wolds Cycle Route.

Dropping in to Thixendale via the road from Fridaythorpe

So a taster of the roads around Thixendale. I had thought that the name of this village was derived from its position within six dales, but apparently there are sixteeen, which I suppose makes more sense. At any rate, if you would like a hilly, fairly contained route then this is one you might wish to consider.

If the embedded ride doesn’t display you can click here to open in Garmin Connect or view in Strava.

Also of interest, a former ride buddy’s comments on Strava about the ‘Thixendale Spider’:

Spider. Do each climb out of Thix. and straight back down to the village after each one. Make one of them much longer and your map on Strava looks like a Spider on a thread. Do all the possible climbs twice and you have “killed the spider”.

See also Clifton CC’s ‘Thixendale Spirograph‘, which I wouldn’t personally choose to do, but which is certainly thorough.

From a display board in St Mary, Sledmere:

Between 1856 and 1913 Sir Tatton Sykes, 4th baronet (1772-1863) and Sir Tatton Sykes, 5th baronet (1826-1913) of Sledmere built, rebuilt or restored 18 rural churches in East Yorkshire, chiefly on the Wolds. It was the aim of Sir Tatton Sykes II, ‘perhaps the greatest English church builder of the 19th century’, to create centres of ‘Christian Art and Worship’ and he spent a fortune to produce some of the finest village churches in Britain. Three of the greatest Gothic Revival architects were employed: John L. Pearson, later architect of Truro Cathedral, George Edmund Street, best known for the Royal Courts of Justice, Strand, and Temple L. Moore, whose career began in the East Riding.

The glory of the impressive architecture of the Sykes churches is equalled by the splendour of their Victorian and Edwardian furnishings by leading craftsmen and artists of the age. On sunny days the churches are flooded with colour from stained glass by the firms of Clayton & Bell, Burlison & Grylls, Kempe & Co., and H.V. Milner. The roofs are painted, the floors covered with decorative tiles, and the ornate wooden or wrought iron and brass screens divide nave from chancel.

The Sykes Churches Trail appears to have come about in 2013 to mark the hundredth anniversary of the death of Tatton Sykes II. It is separated in to a southern circuit and a smaller northern circuit, with Sledmere appearing on both. Over the summer of 2022 I completed several shorter rides in order to devise a single manageable, but challenging, Sykes Churches Trail suitable for road and touring cyclists. It covers a little over 100 miles.

Not all of the Sykes churches are included in the resultant route. I originally visited North Frodingham and Wansford but discounted them as, well, this is a web site celebrating cycling on the Yorkshire Wolds and these two villages are on the Holderness plain. (Similarly, the church of St Margaret, Hilston sits on the North Sea coast and was in any case destroyed by a bomb and rebuilt in the 1950s.) St Peter, Langtoft and St Andrew, East Heslerton failed to make the cut because of their proximity to unsuitable main roads. None of these roads is free from risk but, ultimately, safety won out over completeness.

This, entirely unofficial, cyclist-friendly Sykes Churches Trail incorporates both northern and southern circuits and fourteen of the Sykes churches. A photograph and description of each church is given below. The cyclist’s cardinal sin of going back over the same roads is kept to a minimum, and is limited to the final spur at Bishop Wilton (a place that would make for an interesting start point). A desire to avoid uphill sections on the busier roads, and to miss out less scenic views, led to some slightly extended loops and route-making decisions. (For instance, as a risk averse cyclist I never ride uphill from Fimber to Sledmere, or from Sledmere to the Cowlam crossroads, and I avoid the featureless drag from Wetwang to Huggate.) Ultimately, the choice of route – and the decision to drop some Sykes churches from the list – was determined by a mixture of safety concerns, a need for quiet roads and a wish to take in the varied and pleasant scenery of the Yorkshire Wolds.

A suggested cyclist’s route for the Yorkshire Wolds Sykes Church Trail as a Garmin Connect course. (Note that East Heslerton and Langtoft are omitted because of their proximity to unsuitable roads.)

You can also view the Sykes Churches Trail – A Cyclist’s Route as a Strava segment and as a Garmin Connect activity.

Sykes Churches Trail – A Cyclist’s Route

As already mentioned, this route could be started at other points – including Hutton Cranswick or Driffield if arriving by train – but here the start point is Field House Farm Campsite, Tibthorpe, which is an excellent base for day rides on the Yorkshire Wolds. (Several other varied route suggestions can be found on the campsite’s listing as one of the ‘Ride Base Loops‘ on this web site.) Consequently, approximate mileage figures for each of the villages passed through are taken from Field House Farm; the route does not necessarily pass immediately by each of the churches and a very short detour may be required to visit some of them. Descriptions of each church are reproduced from material written to promote the trail in 2013.

St Mary, Kirkburn (mile 3). “An early 12th century Norman church restored by J.L. Pearson for Sir Tatton Sykes I in 1856-7 when the south porch was added. The spectacular Norman doorway of three orders has beakhead and zigzag in the arch and a hoodmould with beasts and figures. Inside there is a fine Norman chancel arch and a delightfully rustic font carved with figures including what appears to be a cat with a mouse. Street furnished the chancel in 1872 and designed the ornate reredos carved by Redfern.”

St Michael, Garton-on-the-Wolds (mile 6). “An imposing Norman church dating from around 1120. It was restored by J.L. Pearson for Tatton Sykes I in 1856-7 when he reconstructed the Norman south doorway and the chancel. The interior comes as a great surprise. In 1872 Tatton Sykes II employed G.E. Street to furnish the church and he was responsible for the extraordinary paintings which cover the walls of the nave and chancel and the jewel-like stained glass. The paintings and glass are by Clayton & Bell and show related Old and New Testament scenes.”

St Mary, Sledmere (mile 11). “The grandest of the Sykes churches built for Tatton Sykes II in 1893-8 at a cost of at least £60,000. Designed by Temple Moor it stands on the site of a 14th-century church that was rebuilt, except for the tower, in 1758. The church is a most lavish essay in the Decorated style with a richly carved red sandstone interior, particularly in the chancel. There is an ornate screen and rood loft and elaborate reredos. The stained glass is by H.V. Milner and Burlison & Grylls (north aisle). There are monuments to the Sykes family from the former church and the fascinating illuminated book commemorating the Wagoners Reserve of the First World War.”

St Andrew, Kirby Grindaltythe (mile 14) “The church with its prominent spire is well sited in a large churchyard on the side of the valley above the Gypsey Race. Dating from the early 12th century the church has earlier origins revealed by fragments of 9th-11th century crosses and an early Romanesque tomb chest. The chancel was reconstructed and a new nave built in 1872-5 by G.E. Street for Sir Tatton Sykes II who provided it with stained glass by Clayton & Bell and H.V. Milner, pretty wrought-iron and wooden screens and a carved alabaster and marble reredos, and covered the whole of the west wall of the nave with a startling mosaic by the Venice and Murano Glass & Mosaic Co. depicting the Ascension.”

St Mary, West Lutton (mile 16). “St Mary’s is one of the most delightful of the smaller Sykes churches with its pretty wooden bell turret in Home Counties style and great variety in window pattern. Designed by G.E. Street and built in 1872-3 it cost Sir Tatton Sykes over £13,000. The church has a sumptuously decorated interior. The roof, of the nave, aisles and tunnel-vaulted vestry, is painted all over with floral designs and texts and has stars and suns in relief. The raised chancel is stone-vaulted with a painted reredos by Burlison & Grylls who were also responsible for the stained glass installed throughout the church in 1891.”

St Peter, Helperthorpe (mile 17). “Standing to the north of the village street St Peter’s is another church designed by G.E. Street for Sir Tatton Sykes II, again entirely individual. Built 1871-3 in the Early Decorated style it has a distinctive tower with bold spire and canted stair turret. Externally the chancel is a little higher than the nave, internally it has eight steps above. Inside the richly painted roofs of the nave, with bands of flowers and stars in relief, and the chancel, with floral panels, are the most striking features. The stained glass by Burlison & Grylls replaced the original scheme by Clayton & Bell in 1893, when the north aisle was added by Temple Moore who designed the fine stone reredos there. The Old Vicarage is by Street.”

St Andrew, Weaverthorpe (mile 18). “High up above the village, alongside the earthworks of a medieval manor house, stands this superb Norman church, restored by G.E. Street for Sir Tatton Sykes II in 1870-2. The inscription on the sundial over the entrance records that the church was built by Herbert of Winchester, the father of St William of York, probably c. 1120. The tall slim early Norman tower has a rounded staircase turret. Inside the high plain stone walls of the narrow aisleless nave contrast with the decorated barrel-vaulted roofs and the lavish Victorian furnishings. The stained glass is by Clayton & Bell.”

St Hilda, Sherburn (mile 25). “At the north end of the village in a large churchyard St Hilda’s, the last of the churches funded by Sir Tatton Sykes II, was completed just before his death. Largely rebuilt by C. Hodgson Fowler 1909-12, the earliest features in the church are the nine pieces of Anglo-Saxon sculpture at the base of the tower, and the wide Norman chancel arch. The interior has exceptional early 20th-century woodwork by Thompson & Co. including a richly carved rood screen, choir stalls with carvings of animals and birds, the organ case and font cover, and the chancel roof with winged angels. Unusually for a Sykes church the only stained glass is medieval fragments in the west window of the south aisle.”

St Mary, Cowlam (mile 41). “A small medieval church that was restored and partly rebuilt in 1852 to designs supplied by Mary E. Sykes, daughter of Tatton Sykes I. The village was depopulated in the late 17th century and the church is reached through a farmyard. Inside is a tub-shaped Norman font richly carved with figures including the three Magi, Adam and Eve, and two wrestlers.”

St Nicholas, Wetwang (mile 70). “The fascinating history of the development of this church from the 11th to the 20th century can be traced in the stonework and fittings. From the Norman period are the north arcade, two windows in the nave, the font and reused carvings in the vestry and under the tower. The tower and north chapel are 13th century, the north doorway is 14th century. There are remnants of 17th-century texts on the nave wall. There was a restoration in 1845-6 paid for by Tatton Sykes I but his son financed a more comprehensive programme of works by Temple Moore in 1895-6 on the tower and north wall, and C. Hodgson Fowler who rebuilt the chancel and re-roofed the nave in 1901-2 when the stained glass by Burlison & Grylls was inserted.”

St Mary, Fimber (mile 76). “The church, of Whitby stone in a 13th-century style, was designed by G.E. Street and built 1869-71 for Tatton Sykes II. It replaced a small chapel-of-ease that had been built on the site of a Bronze Age burial mound. The chancel has an ornate brass and iron screen and a richly carved reredos. The fine stained glass windows are by Clayton & Bell.”

St Mary, Fridaythorpe (mile 78). “Another interesting church restored for Tatton Sykes II by C. Hodgson Fowler in 1902-3. He added a new north aisle, replacing a 13th-century aisle long demolished, and the south porch to what is largely an early 12th-century building. The squat tower has an elaborate Edwardian clock face. There is a curious inscription ‘this 713 found hear’ carved on the capital of the first column from the east in the north arcade. The ornate carved reredos came from Sledmere church and the glass is by Burlison & Grylls, 1910.”

St Mary, Thixendale (mile 81). “The church, built 1868-70, the former vicarage and school (now village hall) and school house form an important group of buildings all designed by G.E. Street for Tatton Sykes II. It is a small church in the style of the 13th century with an aisled nave, bellcote and chancel. The stained glass windows are by Clayton & Bell except the east window by Burlison & Grylls in 1893.”

St Edith, Bishop Wilton (mile 92). “As lavish and embellished on the inside as it is visually striking on the outside, with its 15th-century tower and spire, St Edith’s church is a treat. The Norman chancel arch and south doorway are richly carved, the latter with animals, faces and human figures. The church was faithfully restored for Tatton Sykes in 1858-9 by J.L. Pearson who was responsible for the prettily painted hammerbeam roof, possibly the work of Clayton & Bell who were responsible for the stained glass. Temple Moore designed the elaborate font for Tatton Sykes II and the black and white mosaic floor said to be based on a floor in the Vatican and laid by Salviati in 1902.”

Related route alternatives in Garmin Connect

The full 100-mile route above is perhaps too long to form some sort of pilgrimage by bike – certainly for one day. Each church deserves a lengthier visit than is possible during a ride of fourteen churches in one go. Rather, the route is intended as a themed ride to enjoy the mostly quiet lanes around villages of the Yorkshire Wolds that feature a Sykes church. Alternative options are detailed below that allowed me more time to appreciate a number of the churches in greater detail. These are the routes I took when I was looking to put together the longer ride.

Sykes Churches Trail (Southern & Northern Circuit) from Field House Farm Campsite – 58 miles, 2,300 feet

Sykes Churches Trail (Southern Circuit) – Eastern Leg from Field House Farm Campsite – 46 miles, 1,300 feet

Sykes Churches Trail (Southern Circuit) – Western Leg from Field House Farm Campsite – 42 miles, 2,770 feet

Sykes Churches Trail (Southern Circuit) from near Beverley – 100 miles, 4,200 feet

Next page – Disclaimer, Ride Notes and More on the Sykes Churches

I’ve ridden two Hull Thursday Road Club sportives and I hope to ride this one next month. So I revisited the now defunct web pages I blogged back in 2013 and 2016 to remind myself of both events. I reproduce them below in case they might be vaguely useful to anyone thinking of entering any of the 2022 distances. I understand that the routes for the Big J will follow those of the Big G, but they don’t appear to be detailed as yet on the events pages. So I’ve included my Garmin Connect and Strava activities should anyone wish to view either the 100km or 150km routes. (Note that my ride from 2013 was from the old event headquarters in Molescroft; subsequent rides set out from Bishop Burton.)

100km Big G Cyclosportive 2013

Yesterday, I finally managed to take part in the Big G Cyclosportive after illness, holidays, a wedding and other distractions prevented me from giving it a go in previous years. This was only my second sportive after completing the Heart of the Wolds back in April. Once again I was unprepared and carrying a bit too much weight, but I enjoyed a dash around the Yorkshire Wolds with some faster, younger cyclists.

I quickly latched on to a group of riders from the Beverley Knights and Hull Thursday clubs. As with my previous sportive, the help of others in sharing the work would prove invaluable; I was rather optimistically hoping for ‘Gold’ in this event. Thankfully, the weather provided a break from the recent heat wave; a few minutes after I had applied sun cream we found ourselves getting rained on as we left Molescroft.

The 100km route avoids the hilliest roads found on the 160km event (Burdale, Birdsall, Hanging Grimston etc), but still throws in some testers. A few riders overtook us, but we pulled back more, particularly on the uphill sections.

I won’t detail the full ride (view the ‘Player‘ link on Garmin Connect). Instead a few highlights for me were just about holding my own on the eight short climbs, being reminded to pedal on the way downhill (old habits die hard for us old cycletourists) and seeing so many riders out on the Wolds.

I was slightly disappointed that, after holding it together on those climbs, I was finally dropped on that little dink out of Etton. But by then I knew that – barring an accident or p***ture – I would get back to Molescroft within the Gold standard time, so it wasn’t a complete collapse. I managed to keep going and got back in under four hours. I was rather chuffed with that.

I really enjoyed this event – and the company along the way. Big thanks to all from Hull Thursday who made the day such a memorable one, especially Dave. That pull through Kiplingcotes in to a head wind had me at my limit. I couldn’t face the post-ride pie and peas (and I think there was a goodie bag I forgot to pick up), but I now have a snazzy maroon Grimpeurs des Wolds polo shirt that matched my complexion nicely. Next year, maybe the 160km ride…?

150km Big G Cyclosportive 2016

I never knew Graeme Forrester – the ‘Big G’. A photograph of him appeared on a poster on the wall at the Bishop Burton College headquarters earlier this month. I’m sure he would have been proud of the efforts made by his club, Hull Thursday, to put on another successful event in his name.

This was my first 150km Big G, and I could have done to have been better prepared for it. Instead, along with a few ride buddies, I used it as preparation for a weekend doing the Way of the Roses coast-to-coast route. I have to confess it was more of a struggle than I had imagined, but there was a real sense of satisfaction in getting round in a half decent time.

I mention the time – yes, I know these sportives are not races – as time had a bearing on how the day went. Four of us – five on the day – had talked about aiming to get round within the seven hour cut-off for the ‘Silver’ standard. Paul and Rob had done the event last year and were disappointed in getting back at around the 7:20 mark. So we would all ride around together. That was the plan…

And so it was that between South Dalton and Holme on the Wolds we were overtaken by a group that contained a bloke with a huge knapsack on his back and another who appeared to have come straight from a game of five-a-side. Despite not being a competitive cyclist it felt wrong not to hitch a ride with this group and gestured to Jason’s mate Martin – the fifth member of our quintet – that we should get on the back for a bit of a tow.

I knew I would struggle on the middle third: Hanging Grimston, Thrussendale Road (Acklam North) and Painsthorpe Lane so, with the wind at our backs, I tagged along. The others I had set off with didn’t seem quite so keen to latch on, but as they are all lighter, younger and fitter I decided it would be prudent to take shelter before I inevitably fell off the pace before being caught.

It didn’t quite work out as planned. The knapsack group stopped at the roadside just before North Dalton and I rode with Peter – who I had mistakenly believed was one of their number – up the steady drag towards Huggate. Like me Peter was rather out of condition and we left each other on Life Hill. On that little dink just before the Sledmere road someone flashed past me. I would later hope it was the chap who got round in just over five hours. Five hours!

I was surprised that I got up Burdale in my quickest time to date. Last time we were chased up by a tractor. I think I may have overdone things as I struggled all the way to the first feed station after this. I couldn’t ignore the rain any longer so on with the ‘race cape’ just past Wharram-le-Street and I stopped again at Birdsall to double check that my rear brake blocks weren’t rubbing against the rims. That’s how much I was slowing down

I also wanted to get in as many miles as possible ahead of the inevitable downpour, but the heavens opened before the Thixendale ‘feed station’ – the village hall – and after a wave of riders overtook me on the ascent of Birdsall Brow. Those cyclists included Martin and Jason. Rob and Paul were not with them.

The grub on the Big G is highly regarded. So much choice – and plenty of it. I needed a longer stop than Jason and Martin, but I was ready to get under way in the rain just as Rob and Paul fetched up. I said I would get off as I needed a head start on them in any case.

I did not enjoy the next bit. More people dragged themselves past me on the steep road out next to the village hall. The only rider I overtook was Peter who I wouldn’t see again until Bishop Burton. The descent of Uncleby hill was just as terrifying as I had expected then the world and his wife – actually, two wives including one on a steel bike with disc brakes – went past me up Hanging Grimston. I did see Jason again. Just before the first (open) gate he was at the roadside replacing a punctured inner tube. Reader, I passed by on the other side. On Thrussendale Road two people ahead of me were pushing their bikes. I know I was really struggling by now, but I swear they were going up faster than me.

The rain and gravelly surface slowed down the usually wonderful descent of Greets Hill and I was grateful of the arrows fastened to wooden stakes pointing the way as I was unfamiliar with this part of the route up to Bugthorpe. On this section – despite an ever present drizzle in the air – I took off my cape just as the grinning duo of Jason and Martin whizzed past. Fair enough. I needed more grub and a bit of a stretch. Painsthorpe lived up to its name and I negotiated the mini waterfalls that formed a margin at each side of that poorly surfaced road.

I have never enjoyed passing through Millington Dale less than on this ride. Fatigue and inclement weather combined to somehow make this spectacular stretch of Yorkshire Wolds cycling a depressingly joyless affair. Fortunately, I perked up after the second, excellent, feed station just south of Huggate. I had only taken one small bottle on this ride and gulped down perhaps a litre of water and took some more goodies before pushing off just as Paul and Rob arrived.

Actually, it wasn’t until getting up Nunburnholme – where a bloke running overtook me – that I felt energised again. For much of the day I had overtaken and been overtaken by various members of Cottingham Road Club. They had either been waiting for those getting up some hill or other or standing around whilst one of a series of punctures was being fixed. (There were an alarming number of punctures that day.) So I latched on to some of them and chatted to Gary as I was dragged along through Kiplingcotes Valley. At the right turn I promptly fell off the back as promised but, idly curious about whether I could still get back under seven hours, I made a bit of a last gasp effort to beat the clock.

My Garmin recorded a moving time of under seven hours, but this particular model does not display overall time elapsed. Back in the Bishop Burton College canteen Jason steered me to the Sports Timing Solutions van and a monitor that shows finishing times. Is it sad that a man of my advanced years can be so chuffed at getting a virtual ‘Silver’ medal? Er, yes, probably. But cycling is a broad church and I reckon there is room for deriving pleasure – now and again – from testing yourself, even if it’s not a race…

I enjoyed all the hospitality of the college, the Hull Thursday members, my Warners massage and a catch up with my four ride buddies. Rob and Paul had shaven ten minutes off their 2015 times. Next year under six hours, anyone?

Visit this link to my Strava activity from 2016 to see the 150km route.

Well, I hope I haven’t put anyone off with these accounts. Best wishes to those who ride the events in aid of Joel.

A pal of mine is helping to organise a local sportive, it’s called the Big J and is in aid of a good cause, so I’m now plugging it for him…https://t.co/QyGMDw83pR#yorkshirewolds #cycling #sportive

— Paul Bentley (@sensisuperstar) July 21, 2022